Battling the Wind on Skye

Fortunately for this, my last excursion of the cruise, I was going on an afternoon trip. In the morning the rain bucketed down.

Unfortunately, the sea was very rough and we were anchored in the bay. This means being taken across the waves by tender to Portree. There were several problems with this. There are only two docking spaces in the port. At midday people were returning to the ship for lunch. This meant long queues are the tenders were offloaded, then re-loaded them with people returning to the ship. On the ship itself, people who wanted to stroll around Portree were boarded onto the same tenders as those of us on excursions. It would have made life easier if the strollers waited until the excursionists had been ferried across.

We eventually reached Portree half-an-hour late for the excursion and I suspect we missed out a photo stop. Nevertheless....

I loved the tour despite the grey skies and gale force wind.

The rugged terrain backed by the mountains made for wonderful vistas. So many shades of green from the grass to the shrubs and trees interspersed with the 'bonny' purple heather and backed by granite mountains. The first stop was to see the Old Man of Storr. Not a venerable old gentleman but a very large single slab of rock overlooking the surrounding land.

The next stop was at Kilt Rock - so called because of its 'pleats'. Stupendous views all around and a waterfall dancing down the cliff face to the sea.

 

I am sure you have heard of Flora Macdonald and Bonnie Prince Charlie. Even simply from the song 'Over the Sea to Skye'. This fearless young woman rescued Charles Stewart (the Young Pretender) from the Scottish mainland and the Duke of Cumberland's forces, and kept him safely on Sky until he could be rescued and taken home to France. Having been on a tender in the rough seas I am even more amazed that she managed it in a small rowing boat.

Flora is buried in the cemetery at Kilmuir and her grave is marked by a very tall monument. Even though I have problems walking uphill I was determined to go to the monument. The biggest problem once up there was the wind which made it very difficult to hold the camera still.

 

Also at Kilmuir, at the bottom of the hill is the Skye Museum of Island Life with thatched stone cottages and some of the implements that had been used for farming in days of old. Each of the cottages (or crofts) bears its name. For example, the Weaver's House, The Old Ceildh House, the Forge.

Our guide, John Mackay was excellent. As he is also a singer we were treated to a couple of Scottish songs, one of them being in Gaelic. And he was proudly wearing his kilt. To be honest, listening to his soft Highland accent reminded me of my Scottish granddad who came from Aberdeen.

It was, despite the weather, a lovely afternoon out.

Oriana anchored off Portree

A Circular Tour from Kirkwall

Ducks come out to play

Now we are in the Orkneys moored at the capital, Kirkwall. And there was a bit of miscalculation on my part so far as my seat on the coach was concerned. The tour didn't go in the direction I had expected so I was sitting on the wrong side of the coach for taking some of the photos.

(By the way, if taking photos through a window do remember to switch off the flash otherwise you take a photo of the flash. Flash photography? Groan.)

We drove northwest to the coach road with its stunning views of the Island of Rousay and the tidal roost on either side of the Isle of Eynhallow. This is where the Atlantic Ocean and the North Sea meet. There we saw a number of basking seals but brown on brown rocks made them difficult to photograph.

Near the RSPB Reserve we made a stop at Birsay Bay. From there we could see the sea bird cliffs at Marwick Head. Very noisy it was too. And, of course, we couldn't miss the Neolithic Ring of Brodgar, a World Heritage Site. We didn't stop there but we did stop at the Standing Stones of Stenness.

For me the icing on the cake was a chance to stroll the streets of Stromness. This is a small fishing harbour across the water from the island of Hoy. One of my favourite modern day classical composers lived, for many years, on Hoy and wrote a gorgeous piano piece entitled 'Farewell to Stromness'. Sir Peter Maxwell Davies who died in March 2016 at his home in Sanday.

You want to know where the Old Man of Hoy is? The other side of the island from Stromness.

As it was a Sunday all of the shops were closed - except one where I bought a box of delicious home-made shortbread. Really melt in the mouth. Yummy. Made me wish I'd bought two boxes.

The blob is the marker buoy over HMS Royal Oak

The return journey was along the coast road overlooking Scapa Flow, the stretch of water which played important roles in both World War I and World War II. It was here at the end of WWI where the German Navy was interned - and scuttled their ships which are still on the seabed. And it was in October 1939 that a German submarine torpedo-ed and sank the HMS Royal Oak, which also rests on the seabed.

For a day that had begun showery it ended up beautifully sunny, for which we were grateful and it was a wonderful day.

The Island of Lewis and Harris

Breathtaking is the only word I can find to describe this tour - of one island of the Outer Hebrides. I'll let you into a secret - I would love to live in Stornoway. A small town with friendly people and within easy reach of Standing Stones, countryside and, of course, the sea.

The guide for this tour was a German lady married to a Scotsman and she loves the island. But, to the tour itself.

 

Driving across the flatlands of Lewis gave us the opportunity of distant views, but there were traffic problems. Sheep roam freely so there were frequent stops as they were either slowly ambling across the road or taking a lie down. For us photographers it was great as we were able to utilise the stopping time. Peat bogs, peat stacks, cushions of purple heather - and sheep on the moors.

The island is divided by mountains so to reach Harris it was climb up and over the pass. Then all the way down to the levels. Between the sea lochs of Ewart and Seaforth and the stupendous craggy mountains the scenery is fantastic. Unfortunately it was very difficult to try and take photographs of the Golden Eagles, but wonderful to see them soaring high in the sky.

Shopping time was in the fishing village of Tarbert. As it is a bit hilly I was unable to go and look around so confined myself to a Harris Tweed shop. Yes, I did buy something in Harris Tweed - a blue tartan cover for my Kindle. Harris Tweed is pure wool and woven by hand. Very expensive. I did see a couple of jackets and a cape which I would have loved to have bought but they were way out of my price range.

We then piled back onto the coach to go to the seaside. The first sight of Lushentyre Beach is, quite literally, breathtaking. White sand and turquoise sea which I have only ever seen before in Mexico on the Yucatan Peninsula (the Gulf of Mexico side of the country).

Down the hill and around the bay we drove to Horgabost Beach. And parked. It was lovely to stroll on the soft white sand, just like icing sugar. Some people even took off their shoes and socks (not me) and one lady dipped her toes in the water. Verdict? Freezing.

Incidentally, the nearby uninhabited island of Taransay is where the BBC Television programme Castaway 2000 was film. With the surrounding scenery you can understand why.

My verdict of the tour? Definitely 5*.

The Countryside of Antrim

The view from Glenariff

I decided on this occasion not to visit Belfast but to discover the beautiful countryside. To get to the countryside from the docks it was necessary to use the motorway. This skirts Belfast (but afforded us a view of some of its sites), continuing on towards the town of Antrim, passing through some of the countryside and over Six Mile Water with Lough Neagh in the distance.

Finally we left the motorway and headed north to Ballymena. Something which we periodically noticed were that flags were flying at  half mast. The guide hurried to reassure us. Apparently it is illegal to fly flags except on certain days of the year but, of course, some people want to fly them anyway. The reason why they are at half mast is because it is quicker to lower them if the authorities are snooping around! Well, that's what the guide told us.

Turning north-east we were surrounded by forests, hills and moors with its purple heather. Very reminiscent of the Highlands of Scotland. We were heading for the Glenariff Forest Park. This is known as the Queen of the Glens and is spectacular with a couple of fast flowing rivers, waterfalls and quiet reflective pools.

Refreshments were provided at the Glenariff Tea House. Either tea or coffee and a home- made scone. Plus, of course, the obligatory gift shop. There was time to wander, take photos of the splendid views and, for the more daring, a chance to meander in the woods and look for the shy red squirrels. Nope, I didn't see any. Just, like everyone else, I got soaking wet as a rather strong shower of rain decided to christen us.

Our return journey was down to the coast at Cushendall to turn south and admire the magnificent coastline. There was one more stop at Carnlough where, on the dockside are two war memorials. One is to the men of Carnlough who lost their lives and the other is to *Percy the Carrier Pigeon. I had just taken my photos when down came the rain again. Luckily there was a Spar supermarket across the road and several of my fellow passengers could be seen heading for it. Yes, we all did a bit of shopping and most of us ended up buying a Mr. Whippy Ice-cream complete with a Cadbury's Flake. I hadn't had one of those for about twenty years! Really yummy.

There weren't any more stops but we did drive through the picturesque fishing village of Ballygally before turning inland at Larne and back to Belfast.

* www.my-secret-northern-ireland.com/carrier-pigeon.html

A Quick Tour of Dublin

Trying to see Dublin in four hours is an impossibility. You simply have to make a choice of which tour to take. Do you want to visit the Guinness Brewery, Trinity College to see the Book of Kells, the Castle or....? The list is almost endless. I chose the Castle.

We drove hither and yon around the City, crossing the River Liffey and back again. Past Trinity College where many of the great Irish writers were alumni such as Oscar Wilde, Samuel Becket, Bram Stoker, Oliver Goldsmith and others.

There was a passing glimpse of Finn's Hotel, about which James Joyce wrote a collection of 'little epics' and where he met his wife, Nora.

Does the name Arthur Wellesley ring any bells? Try the Duke of Wellington. He was born at 24 North Merrion Street in 1769. We passed it on the way to Merrion Square which has beautiful Georgian houses surrounding it on three sides. All of the windows are perfectly symmetrical and they have the famous 'Doorways of Dublin' with their half-moon shaped fanlights over the doors.

 In one corner of the gardens is a fantastic statue of Oscar Wilde lying back on some rocks and wearing a green jacket with pink lapels and cuffs. Stand and look at it from one side and he is smiling, go to the other side and he is sneering. He is actually facing his home on the corner of Merrion Square.

Our next stop was for a brief stroll in St. Stephen's Green, a beautiful park with a lake, gorgeous flower beds, a children's corner and plenty of paths along which to stroll. But I did say it was a brief stop for us as our next photo stop was St. Patrick's Cathedral. For some of us it was also to pay homage to Jonathan Swift (1667-1745) - the writer of Gulliver's Travels - who is buried there. Unfortunately we didn't have time to go into this 13th century edifice, just take photos of the exterior.

The 'buried man' in children's corner at St. Stephens Green

This was a brief stop because we were expected at the 13th century Castle. Be warned, there are lots of cobbles to cross to reach its front door. Once inside we were met by an official guide who led us to the State Apartments. The castle was once the residence of the English Viceroy (in the days before Ireland obtained its independence). These days it is used for State functions and the most fantastic room is St. Patrick's Hall with its painted ceiling.

We were now at the end of our tour of Dublin as it was time to return to the coach and be whisked back to the Oriana.

By the way, if you have a problem with standing around while a guide spouts off, take a walking stick for propping up purposes.

Tom O'Connor - a Great Comedian

I first met Tom O'Connor - and his lovely wife, Pat - on P&O's Oriana a few years ago. And have met them many times since - on P&O ships.

Tom is remembered for his many television appearances both as a comedian and as a compere - go to his web site to see the list! (www.tomoconnor.co.uk)

I love his sense of humour which is guaranteed to tickle one's funny bone. His take on the foibles of modern day life is funnier than many of the young comedians we see on television today. You know, the ones who can barely open their mouths without swearing. So not funny.

When on the ship and between his two evening performances Tom sits outside the theatre and chats to his fans - as well as signing books. I've lost count how many he has written, all based on his humour. I have just read 'Fit to Travel!' which begins with youthful exploits on bicycles, goes to buses, trains, cars, ferries, air travel and, of course, cruises. Something funny for everyone to enjoy. Into golf? Yup, there's a book about that too.

Do visit Tom's web site where you will find out about him, his career, the charities he supports and, if you go cruising, you can even see which ships he will be on. If you do see him on a cruise please do go and have a chat. He is one of my favourite people (so is Pat!).

Thank you, Tom, for hours of enjoyment.

Driving Through Fairyland

What a fantastic drive this was alongside the Rauma River in Norway, which was still frozen over. Either side are rocky mountains which were decorated with snow and icicles. These are either waterfalls or frozen ice melt. Pretty spectacular.

In places on either side of the road were snowy fields looking like Persil white blankets with a few houses or huts dotted about. The only real signs of life were the animal tracks in the snow.

The first stop we made was at Trollveggan to gape at Europe's highest vertical drop (1,000 m.). Does the name of the place ring any bells? I got it wrong - nothing to do with Grieg's 'Wedding at Troldhaugen' but all about trolls, those really ugly gnomes. In the shop it was everything to do with trolls, enough to give me nightmares. Also a cafe and loos for those in need.

Then it was time to drive on through more spectacular scenery between the craggy mountains to the ski resort of Bjorli. Not a lot of skiers but loads of sparkling snow. Enough to made you put on your sun glasses. In the hotel we were treated to coffee and apple cake. The hour's stop was a bit too long as we ended up wandering about like lost souls until it was time to re-board the coach.

We returned to Andalsnes along the same route which is fantastic because both sides of the route have differences. For example, on the return journey I was able to see the Kylling Rail Bridge with its 59 metre drop. Apparently it took about nine years to build in the early 20th century.

I am sure that in the summer this part of Norway is just as beautiful, especially when the flowers are blooming and cattle are in the fields. At that time of the year it is popular with walkers and climbers but for me this was a magical drive through fairyland.

Even Travel Writers have Travel Woes

Always when I am on a cruise or holiday I seem to meet up with people who complain about various things not going right. Very often it is that they have chosen the wrong holiday but don't want to admit it. Sometimes, especially on a cruise, if something goes wrong - either with the ship or the weather or anything else you can think of - the complaints are hung out on the line.
Let me tell you about my latest cruise -

The first port of call was Andalsnes and the tour I went on was delightful. Whenever we got off the coach the pavements were clear of snow and ice. But, come the second port of call, Tromso, not only were there some hills and slopes I couldn't have managed, but the pavements hadn't been cleared of snow and ice - just gritted. So I did not get to see the Arctic Cathedral, the Planetarium or the Museum.

This was NOT the fault of the shipping line or the tours department. It was MY fault. I should have checked out the excursion and the town more thoroughly.

Then came the BIG NIGHT OUT. Going to find the Northern Lights. As it would be below freezing we were all well wrapped up - and had to unwrap on the coach as it was an hour's drive to get to the camp. There we hurried to the cabin where hot chocolate and cake awaited us. After I had had mine I braved the cold and went outside. Fortunately there was enough snow that my boots could get a good grip but there was a horrendous north wind which was fine if it was behind you but trying to walk into it was a nightmare. I strolled, I stood, I sat on benches and like everyone else I looked up at the sky. Saw stars and clouds. Didn't see any lights. Back indoors for a thaw out. Another try to see the lights. A guide pointed to something in the sky - he could see it, I couldn't but I pointed the camera and took a photo. Nothing. The problem is that to the naked eye the 'lights' often look like wispy clouds. It is only when you photograph them that you see the colours. All those lovely photos we see in magazines and on telly are taken with special time-release cameras and videos. The average camera doesn't photograph them well at all.

I gave up and found a coach to get me back to the ship. Some people on the later tours did see the lights so my advice is that if you are ever going, take a tour after 9.00 p.m. I suspect that the  lights are stronger then.

The next morning I woke up at 6.00 and we were still in port - and it was snowing. Turns out we should have left at 3.30 a.m. but because of the tremendous wind we needed two tugs to get us safely away from the dock and only one tug was available. We finally left at midday after a second tug came to our aid.

We should have called at Stavanger for a morning but now there wasn't time. Of course there were complains and suggestions that if we had speeded up we could have been at that city for the afternoon. As I pointed out - on several occasions - there may not have been room in the port later in the day. Not to mention the fact that shipping is not so much monitored as martialled through the channel between the UK and the European mainland. Think aeroplane take off and landing times and how they are monitored.

I will, when I have a moment to spare, do a blog on the wonderful drive through the Romesdalen Valley from Andalsnes.

Sao Miguel in the Atlantic

Ponta Delgada, the capital of Sao Miguel in the Azores, was once a fishing village on the south coast and is now the port much visited by cruise ships.  Long ago it was fortified against attacks by pirates then in the 18^th and 19^th centuries economic growth brought prosperity.  The result of this was the building of palaces, mansions, churches and monuments so lots of interesting things to see during a stroll.

On the drive from Ponta Delgada to Ribeira Grande on the north coast is through some splendid countryside. Farms where black and white Friesian and Jersey cows graze, then on through plantations of pineapples, bananas, sugar beet, chicory and vineyards.

The first settlers in Ribeira Grande were drawn to the area by the fast flowing streams where they built water mills to help the weaving of linen and wool. Some of the houses in the town have pretty wrought-iron balconies while others have ceramic tiled facades and, of course, there are several churches.  On either side of the river are beautiful gardens through which to stroll and relax taking in the sights and aromas of the colourful flowerbeds, lush green lawns and trees.

Tea Plantation

The road along the northern coast is high above the fantastic rocky coastline and aquamarine sea.  Along here are market gardens and farms, flowers such as amaryllis, pink belladonna, azaleas and camellias abound.  There are also chestnut trees and tea plantations.  (The teas grown here are orange pekoe and green.) 

One of the most famous areas on Sao Miguel is the Furnas Valley which is a huge volcanic crater containing a lake and gardens and surrounded by tree covered hills.  The gardens contain the usual array of brilliant flowers along with ferns and bracken, bright green Japanese cedars and araucarias. 

Tucked in among the trees on one side of the lake is the Gothic Jose de Canto Chapel which is dedicated to Our Lady of Victories.  With its reflection in the still waters of the lake it makes a very pretty and popular picture for photographers.

In the town of Furnas the Caldeiras are spectacular with geysers of boiling water and medicinal mud.  There are even taps of mineral waters from which people fill bottles and jugs for the home although, having tasted some of the water I wonder why? Make sure you have a large handkerchief or scarf with which to cover your mouth and nose when strolling among the geysers - the smell is horrendous!

 

What I really enjoyed was visiting the beautiful Terra Nostra Park.  It was created in the 18^th century by Thomas Hickling and has many walking trails, lakes and streams, plenty of colourful and exotic flowers, and ancient trees.  The swimming pool is extraordinary.  Here is not garish blue water but an enormous lake of thermal iron water – brownish.  It looks very dirty but is very healthful.

Several people I met on the cruise (P&O of course) and who also went ashore on the island told me that they are planning to go back for a holiday. What a good idea.

The Mountains and Maquis of Corsica

For me the word 'Maquis' conjures up the brave French Freedom Fighters of World War II.
They adopted the word maquis from the landscape of shrubs and herbs in which Corsican bandits once hid. When touring the Corsican maquis it is easy to see what a great hideaway this is.


As our coach climbed away from the coast at Ajaccio we drove through woods and areas of shrubs, arbutus (the strawberry tree, so named for its red berries), myrtle, honeysuckle, laurel, thyme, rosemary, fennel and lavender. Very aromatic.

The first turning we made off the highway was onto a two lane road with room for vehicles to pass - later we ended up on a very narrow road but, fortunately, didn't have to do any reversing. From here on in the roads twisted and turned, going ever higher and we eventually stopped - in a small lay-by - to take photos of some clear waterfalls splashing over rocks at the head of the Prunelli Gorge through which the River of the same name flows.

As we wound our way along the side of the gorge there were cliffs along one side and the steep gorge on the other. Quite scary. Scared? Me? Nope. I thought it was fabulous.






Gradually the Tolla Lake came into view between the tree and shrub clothed foothills. (This is a man-made lake to provide water for Ajaccio.) Here there was another photo stop before driving up to the village for a rest break and a drink. I'm not sure whether the break was for the coach, the driver or so that passengers could fortify themselves ready for the drive down and back to Ajaccio. Whatever the reason the peace and quiet of that mountain village was magical.

As was the tour. I really felt that by taking this excursion I was seeing and experiencing the real Corsica. Its heartland. Yes, I was on a P&O cruise but this time on the Aurora - lovely ships.