Wednesday 31 October 2012

A Cruise up the River Douro in Portugal


Whilst in Portugal I took a cruise from Oporto, upriver through the vineyards as far as Regua where a coach met us to take us to Lamego for the rest of the week.

We boarded the boat at Vila Nova de Gaia which is the side of the river where the Port Wine Lodges are located (yes, we did visit one of them and got to sample some port).  Having sailed beneath the D. Luis I and Dona Maria bridges - the latter designed by Gustave Eiffel - we soon left Oporto and were out into the peaceful countryside.

Historically the River Douro was a vital link between the wine valleys and Oporto from where the wine is exported all over the world.  In days gone by when the grapes were picked by hand and then trodden the barrels of wine were transported down river on Rabello boats.  Throughout September - harvest time - the river would have been crowded with these sail boats.  Very picturesque.

Now that road and rail links have been improved the river is no longer used to transport the wine but the boats, which are often anchored in Oporto, are used during Fiesta times.

The Douro River Valley is a Unesco World Heritage Site so it is very unspoiled and delightful.  During the cruise we passed by woodlands, some coming down to the river’s edge, others with great granite boulders.  Dotted about the landscape are farms, houses, villages and towns.  We saw plenty of birds including herons and, by looking carefully in the wooded areas, saw a few mountain goats.

The landscapes are an artist’s (or photographers) dream, with the clean and pure air adding a luminescence to the scenery.  Add to that the sparklingly clear river water and you can understand why this cruise is so popular. 



The vineyards seem to be on every available space - flatland and hills.  Most of the rows of grapes go in one direction but sometimes due to the shape of the hill there will be one or two with the rows in different directions.  As the picking of grapes is now mechanised, rather than the rows being close together giving a lush aspect there is more space between them so the fields look like an ochre fabric with narrow bands of green.

 Those passengers not going to Lamego or further along the river, disembark at Regua and take a train back to Oporto.


Monday 1 October 2012

A Trip to Orient

No, not to THE Orient but to Orient in Mallorca.


Some village houses
Many years ago - more than I care to remember - I worked in Mallorca for a British tour operator.  One day it was decided to inaugurate a new half day tour, but the professional guides weren't interested in guiding it so it fell to me.

The first trip was decidedly an adventure.   We left the main road at Santa Maria and headed towards the mountains.  En route we were to stop for coffee in a small hamlet.  That road was just about wide enough for the coach and twisted and turned down hill then began to rise again but....  On the outskirts of the hamlet the road was up and the workmen nowhere in sight.  We got off the coach, found a couple of planks to put across the trench and I led everyone up towards the restaurant only to discover that it isn't open on Mondays.  Meantime the driver had found the workmen who, together with some of the passengers, laid the two pipes, cemented them together and filled the hole.  The coach was then able to cross, go up the hill, turn around and comeback down. 

As we all agreed, that job was probably supposed to last all day!

The Cafe Terrace
We eventually arrived at the village of Orient where we did find somewhere for coffee and cake and had time to stroll around the village.  But I was in for another surprise.  The driver had to turn the coach around.  Why?  Apparently the road further on wasn't suitable for coaches.  And there I had been under the impression that we were taking a circular tour.

The return journey wasn't that uneventful either.  We had to pass through another village which had a one-way system.  As the coach turned left there was a road sign attached the wall of a building which impeded the vehicle.  My driver simply leaned out of his window and pushed it back against the wall.  To my knowledge it stayed like that and could still be so!

The clients didn't mind the problems as we made a stop in Santa Maria for liqueur tasting and, as they said, it was a tour with a difference.
Beautiful mountains and valleys of Mallorca