Bluebell Steam Railway in East Sussex

My trip on the Bluebell Railway began at the Victorian Sheffield Park Station.  Strolling up the lane towards the station I was wafted back in time by the old tin-type ‘posters’ attached to the white picket fence.  Here were advertisements for “Blue Bell Tobacco”, Redfern’s Rubber Wheels” and one that we still recognise – “Dewar’s Whisky”.

Once on the platform it is difficult to know what to look at first.  Obviously if there is a waiting train that gets the first inspection.  On this occasion there was a Pullman being prepared for a private lunch.  Envy, envy.  Looking in the windows at the tables spread with white linen and adorned with crystal glasses, silver cutlery, pink shaded lamps and the comfortable arm chairs does make one envious.

 Especially for boys of all ages are the workshops.  Here are restored locomotives, engines waiting to be restored or repaired.  And they come in all sizes from the small “Stepney” to the big old workhorses that once belonged to British Railways.  It’s funny, but when I was a teeny tot I am sure these monsters were black and dirty.  Now they are bright and shiny in either black or green. 

Across the footbridge on the other platform I found piles of luggage – old fashioned trunks, hampers and suitcases. The Waiting Room, now a museum, has photographs, various bits of equipment and a panel containing three stained glass windows depicting three gentlemen whose inventions helped create steam locomotion.

Toot!  Toot!

Time to board the train.  Unlike commuters we chatted with our neighbours and pointed out things of interest – some cows, horses or sheep (including cuddly, bouncy, lambs) in the fields.  Then there was the wild life, mostly rabbits bobbing about the fields and some colourful pheasants.  Someone further down the carriage called out, “Look, there’s a deer!” 

We looked about wildly but as we had no idea where he was looking we didn’t see the deer. When we drew into Horsted Keynes Station I wished there was time to get off and enjoy a step back in time to the 1940s.  Unfortunately I had other things to do later and couldn’t afford to wait there for the next train.

In those days the line terminated at Kingscote Station where we got off and went to the picnic area behind the station.  While we sat in the sun, the engine was unhitched and trundled its way to the other end of the train ready to make the return journey. Nowadays the Bluebell Railway goes all the way to East Grinstead.

In December there will be lots of special events such as Santa Specials on various dates starting either at Sheffield Park or East Grinstead. On the 21st December are Reindeer Specials from East Grinstead and Victorian Christmas Trains from Sheffield Park.

For more information log on to www.bluebell-railways.co.uk

Out and About in Bath

Whether you read Jane Austen, Georgette Heyer or any other writer of Regency novels you will have heard of the city of Bath.

In the centre of the town, beside the Abbey are the Pump Room and the Roman Baths.  The hot springs which – according to legend – were discovered by Prince Bladud in 500 BC when he followed his pigs into the waters and cured his leprosy.

Here are the same stone pavements around the steamy greenish waters the ancient Romans had used.  To me it feels like a holy place.  Not surprising as it had been a temple – to Minerva, the goddess of wisdom and healing.  And it comes complete with sculptures and mosaics. The water?  The baths still produce over one million litres of water a day at 46 degrees celsius.

For those brave enough to emulate the Georgians of the 18^th century who went to 'take the waters' you can taste it in the Pump Room.  Taking the waters was supposedly to cure their over-indulgences in the food and drink line.  The evenings would be spent in the Assembly Rooms dancing or playing cards.  Or at the theatre or – wining and dining.

Bath Abbey is on the site of a Saxon Monastery where the first King of England was crowned in the year 973.  (Edgar, grandson of Alfred the Great). The Abbey is not only imposing on the outside but inside as well.  Fabulous stained glass windows and smooth columns leading the eye up to the elegant fan vaulting.

A short walk from the here are the beautiful Parade Gardens along the banks of the River Avon. From the gardens is a splendid view of the Pulteney Bridge which dates from 1770 and is based on a John Nash design.  It comes complete with shops.

Also not to be missed is the elegant Royal Crescent made up of a terrace of thirty graceful houses all with matching windows and giant columns.  No. 1 is open to the public and decorated in the style of the period so that we can see exactly how the wealthy lived in the 18^th century.

The Royal Crescent was influential in the design of many other crescents in Bath which also has several elegant Regency squares through which to stroll. 

All of these things can be seen in just one day, but as there are many other things to see, not only in Bath, but in the surrounding area, a longer visit is advisable, especially if you also want to browse the shops or visit the Assembly Rooms where the Balls were held. 

St. Martin/San Maarten 2005

Here are a few photographs from my visit to this island.

Three Rivers of Southampton

Hamble River

Just been on a delightful day out - a sail around the waters of Southampton. It is amazing how many interesting, beautiful and strange things you can see from a boat.

Netley Castle

The three rivers are - the Itchin, Southampton Water and the Hamble. Our Blue Funnel cruise started at Ocean Village where we sailed through the Marina, with its many moored boats - large yachts, launches, small runabouts (as it were) and many other types. Out into the Itchin from where we could see three docked cruise liners but more about them later. We turned south to head into Southampton Water. There is some beautiful scenery on both sides of the river - the New Forest to the west and to the east bits of Southampton and some more pretty scenery. On that side of the river was the ruined Netley Abbey and Netley Castle. Fortunately there was narration so we did know what we were passing. Remember it all? Not quite.

Watch out for pirates on the Hamble!

Across from the Fawley Oil Refinery we headed inland up the pretty Hamble River. As well as the

scenery there are pleasure craft of all shapes and sizes to see. Some anchored in the river, some at marinas and all along on both sides, some glorious scenery. I love the river crossing ferry - painted pink!

Queen Elizabeth

Having seen the delights of the Hamble we turned and headed back to Southampton Water and the

Itchin River to get close up to the huge ships in the docks. The inevitable cargo vessels from car carriers to container ships but, of course, what we really wanted see were the three huge liners. First Cunard's Queen Elizabeth, then two P&O ships - the small Adonia (been on that) and the larger Oriana (also been on that - love its ballroom!).

And, did we ever get lucky - the sun shone all day long.

The excursion was organised by Woods Travel of Bognor and had made many stops to pick up passengers. A great way to visit places without having to worry about driving or public transport.

Useful web sites:

www.woodstravelco.uk

www.bluefunnel.co.uk

The Adonia

Las Vegas - Glamour, Glitz and Gaudy.

When I was strolling through the hotel's casino I was brought up short.  Was it?  Wasn’t it?  No, it couldn’t have been.  I continued my stroll which, of course, brought me back to the figure of a gentleman at a slot machine.  And I still couldn’t make up my mind.

Was it Richard Gere?  Being British I didn’t have the guts to ask.

During my visit I do know that a starlet held her birthday party at Caesar’s Palace so there were many famous faces around.

For Europeans like me Las Vegas takes a bit of getting used to.  The hotels are enormous, the casinos are huge and noisy and the razzamatazz is 24 hours.  It certainly took me a few days to get a handle on the place.

After discovering the delights of the casino-hotel, which is like a mini town with shops, restaurants and fast food outlets, you step out into the blazing sun of The Strip and wonder where to go next.  The hotel to the left?  The hotel to the right or the hotels across the road?  All very puzzling.

For example, I stayed at The Excalibur with the Luxor and Mandalay to one side, New York, New York on the other, the Tropicana and the MGM Grand across the road.  Add to the mix such hotels as the Venetian with its Doge’s Palace, Rialto Bridge, Campanile and Gondoliers or the elegant Bellagio and you can understand the confusion.

One thing is for sure, it takes more than a few days to discover the delights of all of the hotels along The Strip. 

To try to get the ‘feel’ of the Strip I used my feet and the free monorails and covered a fair amount of ground.

A monorail runs between The Mandalay, with its lagoon, rum distillery and a pool with a sandy beach (well, it is in the desert), the Egyptian themed Luxor (entrance from the Monorail station is through the Sphinx) and The Excalibur.  This last comes complete with gaudy towers, a King Arthur, Merlin and the Knights (including Medieval Tournaments and Banquets).  Ironically Sherwood Forest, which is synonymous with Robin Hood and nothing at all to do with King Arthur, is also featured as a café.

Crossing the walkway over Tropicana Avenue I discovered New York, New York.  Mind you, with its Statue of Liberty and replicas of the Empire State and Chrysler buildings it is difficult to miss.  The restaurant area is typical of New York with its delis and bars.

Once through New York, New York it was out into the bright and hot sun to carefully cross the road to the Monte Carlo – looking like Monaco’s Place du Casino.  Inside I took careful note of a Chinese restaurant as a great dinner location for the evening.  Wending my way through the hotel’s marble reception I eventually came to the monorail station.  This one to take me to the elegance of The Bellaggio.

Where to start with this hotel is difficult.  It is one of the few which, if you enter from the Strip, has its entry straight into the Reception area rather than through the casino.  In the lobby is a huge and gorgeous ceiling sculpture by Chihuly in the shapes of flowers and leaves – a veritable garden of exotic blooms.  Passing through Reception you come to the Conservatory, some beautifully laid out gardens that reflect the season.  I was there in autumn and one flowerbed consisted of a display of apples of all types ‘pouring’ down and around from a watermill.  Another flowerbed was a pumpkin patch complete with scarecrows.

The shopping mall, Via Bellagio, is only for the very rich with shops such as Tiffany, Chanel, Gucci and so on.  Outside it overlooks the lake on front of the hotel and looks like an Italian lakeside village.  Some of the time the lake looks calm and smooth but it has a wonderful feature – dancing fountains and music.  Never mind what times I was there, day or night, I missed them every time!

There are times when my resistance is low.  I know the real Venice very well and as I could see Venice’s Campanile (bell tower) I had to walk up to The Venetian.  There in front is the Rialto Bridge, a section of the Grand Canal (complete with gondolas and gondolieri) and backing this, the Doge’s Palace. 

Inside the hotel is another canal running through the shopping mall which itself meanders just like the streets and squares of Venice.

Having talked about the gaudy and the glitzy I bet you are wondering where the glamorous part comes in.  Those fabulous showgirls, of course, in their high, high heels, enormous headdresses, diamantes sparkling, feathers of all colours of the rainbow floating about them – and little else. 

At night Las Vegas is like a vast colourful fairyland with the neon glowing, people in cars parading up and down The Strip, people on foot strolling and, indoors, people gambling, eating in the wide variety of restaurants and seeing the shows.  Everything from famous singers and performers to Cirque du Soleil and virtually anything else you can think of.

This is just a taste of some of the wonders to be discovered in Las Vegas.  I will definitely be returning to explore more of the hotels, which could be never ending as more are being constructed (and others renovated) all the time. 

Sandwich on Cape Cod

How appropriate I thought, a Salt Box in Sandwich or, to be more precise, a Salt Box House.  I had just driven from Boston to Cape Cod and hadn’t been able to resist going to look at the town of Sandwich.  As a Londoner, I already knew the town of Sandwich in Kent.  And there was the Salt Box house.

With its narrow streets and overhanging trees you could almost be in an English village.  Here are delightful houses and shops in all shapes, sizes and colours.  White, pink, yellow and one or two in deep wine red.  All very picturesque.  I parked the car and strolled up and down taking pictures, then out of curiosity followed the road around a bend.  There were some large white clapboard houses, a church, the Dexter Grist Mill and a village pond.  More and more like England.

I didn’t have time to stand and stare, I was looking for the Americana Museums and Gardens at the Heritage Plantation of Sandwich.  As it wasn’t within walking distance I took a slow and careful drive along a twisting country lane. With my usual luck, it was a showery day.  I am not sure whether that was because I seem to be a rainmaker or whether it is because there is a shop called 'The Weather Store' in the village.  Because of the rain I didn’t get to see much of the gardens at the Plantation although I am told they are beautiful, particularly in spring when the rhododendrons and azaleas are in bloom. 

The first museum was the J.K. Lilly III Automobile Museum.  As a lover of veteran and vintage cars I was in my element – there are even two old Rolls-Royce cars here.  The building is a copy of a large Shaker Round Barn so I was able what one of these look like. Among the cars there are a gaudy yellow Stutz Bearcat, a Ford Tin Lizzie, Chevrolets, Oldsmobiles, a Cadillac and almost any make of American car you can think of.  They even have a car which once belonged to Gary Cooper – an immense leaf green and primrose yellow Duesenberg.

Stutz Bearcat

Gary Cooper's Deusenberg

As the rain was still bucketing down I ran from here to the Carousel café for a warming bowl of chowder whilst hoping the rain would subside.  It did and it was then a rather quick walk to the Military Museum. For people are into all things military it is great.  Firearms and flags, military miniatures, and Native American artifacts.  And I saw a very strange Union Jack – red, white, blue and beige!

Outside and another quick dash to the Art Museum.  Here I indulged myself with looking at a room full of glasswork, lithographs, toys and loads of miniature model birds. Everyone’s favorite ‘toy’ in here has to be the gorgeous carousel.  I sat for ages watching it.  No, I didn’t get on it but did enjoy watching everyone else. The last section is American art.  Some of the paintings are, to say the least, naïve, others, particularly the landscapes, interesting.  There is also a collection of weather vanes – some quite strange – and carved cigar store figures.  You know, those human sized figures which you see outside tobacco stores in old American movies.  What I cannot understand is why there are so many Native Americans - both male and female.  What do they have to do with cigars?  They smoked pipes of peace.

Then it was time to return to the village to discover one more place I had always wanted to see.  To be exact, a type of house.  I had read of Salt Box houses but never seen one.  The Hoxie House is a wonderful example.  Why is it called a Salt Box?  If you have ever seen an old fashioned saltbox you will know that the lid slopes down to the front so that any moisture will run off and not get into the salt.  The house has a short deep pitched roof at the front and at the back a long steep pitched roof.  Thus the snow falls off! 

A guide showed us about the house, explaining the artifacts and how they were used.  Bearing in mind that the house is thought to have been constructed around 1670 and you will realize that some of the items are very strange.  The most important room is the Keeping Room where all the cooking was done and the family congregated – especially in the winter.   Here all the sewing and laundry was dealt with.  Above that room is a loft which could be used for sleeping or storage with a wooden ladder up which to climb.

Also done in this room would be the spinning.  You couldn’t just go to a shop and buy wool in the seventeenth century.  You had your own sheep, sheared them and had the wool spun.  This was usually done by an unmarried lady of the village.  Hence the name “spinster” for an unmarried lady.

There is a Great Room or parlour which was used for high days and holidays.  This is furnished appropriately with a table and chairs, a chest and a large loom.  In those days the weavers were travellers who received free bed and board in exchange for doing the weaving which sometimes took two or three months. Above this room is the Chamber or bedroom.  A large room where parents and children would have slept - the parents in a double bed and children in cradles or truckle beds.  During the day these last were pushed away out of sight under the big bed. And above that is the loft - reached by a ladder. 

For me the best was yet to come.  I stayed at The Belfry Inn, a wonderful B&B. My room was in the Painted Lady – a pretty Victorian wooden house which was once the Manse (Drew House).  Adjacent is The Belfry, a deconsecrated church now turned into a wonderful restaurant.  And a section has had a first floor added with six guest rooms.  (www.belfryinn.com)

During the rest of my stay I drove extensively around Cape Cod. Looking at some of the town names. It is easy to tell where some of the Pilgrims and later Settlers came from. Chatham, Falmouth, Harwich, Yarmouth and Truro.  Enough to make the English feel at home.

ANTIQUES IN THE ATTIC

Just been checking through my Kindle books for reviews and have to laugh. Two new reviews for Antiques in the Attic, purchased in the UK. One with 5* and one with 2*. Apparently the person who posted 2* lives in Sussex but didn't recognise the location.

Har-har-har. You aren't supposed to recognise the location! It is fictitious.

Ah well, takes all sorts.

Amazon.com/barbara-bothwell

A Procession of Royal Coaches

When looking at the Royal coaches on display at The Royal Mews in London, the only word I could think of to describe them was a 'procession'. Shining, trimmed with 'gold' and some with crystal lamps they are an array of elegance.

The landaus are frequently used, both with the hoods up (cold weather and rain) but are best recognised when the hoods are down. Such as for Royal Weddings and State occasions. Annually they are used at Ascot when HM Queen Elizabeth II entertains guests at Windsor Castle.

The Royal Mews, which is open to the public, also has some other magnificent coaches.

One of the newer carriages is The Diamond Jubilee State Coach which is used for State Visits and the State Opening of Parliament. I can understand why it is used for the latter. Having stood in the wind and rain waiting to wave to Her Majesty as she passes by I am sure she appreciates the fact that this coach has heating. It also has electric windows and stabilisers - the latter being a good enough reason to use it for State Visits.

Made in Australia and incorporating artifacts into the bodywork it is a mobile Museum celebrating the history of Great Britain. For example, fragments from Henry VIII's Mary Rose, the former Royal Yacht Britannia and a cross on the top carved from wood from HMS Victory. Then there are fragments from the Stone of Destiny, Isaac Newton's apple tree - I could go on but the list would take a whole article. The lamps are handmade Edinburgh Crystal and the door handles have 24 diamonds and 130 sapphires from New Zealand. Together with the gilding it really is a magnificent vehicle.

There are many other coaches - only some of which go on display - there isn't room for them all! For example, there is the Scottish State Coach which was built in the 19^th century and began as a glass coach owned by Princess Mary of Adelaide, Duchess of Teck.  In 1969 it was given a new roof and has a model of the crown of Scotland on its roof – hence its name.  The advantage to spectators when this coach is in use is that it has large glass windows and glass panels in the roof giving plenty of illumination of the occupants.  On the doors are the royal arms for Scotland and the insignia of the Order of the Thistle.  With its gold filigree around the roof this is a very elegant carriage.

Queen Alexandra’s State Coach, described in 1865 as a ‘plain town coach’, was converted into a ‘glass state coach’ in 1893 for the then Princess of Wales (later Queen Alexandra).  During the State Opening of Parliament the Imperial State Crown is carried in this coach ahead of the Queen’s Procession to the Houses of Parliament.  Compared to some other carriages this one is rather sombre looking with a replica crown on the roof. The royal arms of England and insignia of the Order of the Garter are on the panels.

The Irish State Coach was built for Queen Victoria but the woodwork was destroyed in a fire in 1911.  It wasn’t until 1988 that the Royal Mews Carriage Restorers completely restored it.  At first glance it seems to be a very serious coach for a serious purpose – until you look at the roof which is a glorious array of gold filigree topped by a crown.  

The Australian State Coach was built in 1988 and presented to the Queen during her Royal Visit to Australia.  It is a very pretty carriage with trumpeting cherubs on top and Waterford crystal lamps showing a design of the Queen’s head.

One of the most recognisable coaches is the beautiful Glass Coach – so called for its large windows – which is used to convey Royal Brides to their weddings.  It was built in 1910 as a sheriff’s town coach and bought by the Royal Household before King George V’s coronation in 1911.

The most famous coach of all is the Gold State Coach, which is kept indoors.

In 1762 an entry in a journal kept by the Clerk of the Stables at the Royal Mews says that at the beginning of the reign of George III a ‘very superb’ State Coach was ordered to be built.  Later in the journal it says that on 24^th November 1762 the new State Coach was brought to the Mews and at 8.00 a.m. eight cream horses were put to it to try it around the mews.  Eight horses are needed to pull it as it weighs four tons.

The framework of the body has eight palm trees which branch out to support the roof.  Each of the four corner trees rises from a lion’s head and are laden with trophies symbolising the victories of Great Britain in the Seven Years War that ended just before the coach was completed.

There are two gilded tritons fore and aft which appear to support the coach.  On the roof are three cherubs representing England, Scotland and Ireland.  They support the Royal Crown and hold the Sceptre, the Sword of State and the Ensign of Knighthood.

The panels on the front, back and sides are by Giovanni Pattista Cipriani, a Florentine painter and engraver who came to London in 1755. 

The Royal Mews also houses the horses that are needed to pull these carriages.  If visiting during the Royal summer holiday the chances are that the horses won’t be there.  They are taken away to enjoy some freedom in the countryside but their 'posh' bridles and harnesses are on display along with the uniforms used by the footmen and grooms (drivers).

As well as transport of a bygone era, the Royal fleet of cars is also kept at the Mews with one limousine usually on display with a prancing horse on the bonnet instead of the winged Victory normally associated with Rolls-Royce.

Even if you cannot go to visit the Palace, you can at least see these magnificent coaches. 

Beautiful Capri, the Island of Love

Some of my most favourite views in the world are from the top of Monte Solaro near Anacapri (on the island of Capri) – nearly 2,000ft. above the Bay of Naples.  When it is misty, and with the other small islands scattered about on the azure water, it looks mysterious.  Rather like a Japanese painting.

Looking down you can see all the shades of the water, from deep sapphire blue to azure, to green, to pale turquoise.  Then there is the rugged coastline with cliffs rising from the aquamarine shallows.  From here you get a 360 degree panorama showing, when it is clear, Naples, Sorrento, Vesuvius and the neighbouring island of Ischia.

Inland are terraced hills, some adorned with red-roofed white homes and clumps of trees, and the occasional splash of bright blue of a swimming pool.

On arrival in Capri and looking up from the harbour on the Marina Grande to the town above it looks like a tough climb, but don’t despair.  There are buses, cabs and a funicular waiting to take you to Capri Town.

To get to Anacapri, take a bus or a cab up the hair-raising drive to the Square.  To reach the summit of Monte Solaro you literally have to jump onto the chair-lift to see those brilliant views.  (Alternatively you can walk up but that is best left to experienced hikers).

The chair-lift swings out of town over back gardens with men maybe doing some weeding and their ladies hanging out the washing.  Then it is a gentle ride up the slope.  Just like being a bird.  No sounds of machinery, no cars, no loud music, just the swish of the chair on the cable, the breeze soughing through the trees and the delicate perfumes of the herbs and the pines. And at the top there are footpaths and a café so you can stroll around to see all of the scenery then sit down with a cooling drink before jumping onto the chair-lift for the return journey.

Back down in the Square stroll and drool over the designer clothes and the jewellery in the shops.  Or have a snack, but be warned, meals are very expensive in Capri.

An alternative to the shops is the little church of St. Michele in Piazza San Nicola.  The church was founded in 1719 and for a small financial donation you can go in to admire the mosaic floor and walk around the church – on boardwalks which protect the floor.  The mosaic depicts the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden of Eden. And I love the statue of a young boy dressed as a Roman soldier and wielding a sword, which stands in the entrance.

Capri Town offers more shops, luxury hotels, cafes and restaurants and the opportunity to stroll across to the other side of the island. 

All around the Town are Medieval alleys to investigate and narrow lanes up and down between multi-coloured villas and gardens.  Intermingling aromas of garlic and cheese and of the abundant flowers greet you.  Especially prolific is the bougainvillea with its purple or crimson flowers scaling house walls or draped over garden fences.

Before leaving Capri I took a boat trip.  There is, of course, the famous Blue Grotto but, be warned, it is best visited in the morning and to enter it, one has to lie flat in the boat.  Not for me, I’m afraid.

I went on the coastal cruise which is awe-inspiring.  The craggy, shrub spattered cliffs rise almost sheer from the sea.  Look up and there is someone sunbathing on top of a rocky outcrop.  No it isn’t.  It is a very lifelike black statue!

I may have missed the Blue Grotto but I wasn’t disappointed.  There is another one that is open to the sea.  Here are the most wonderful rock formations seemingly stretching up into infinity.  And the sea is the most gorgeous turquoise you have ever seen.

To try to describe anything else in detail would be an anti-climax but, if sailing along that coast, look up and see if you can see the “anteater”.  That’s my name for a most extraordinary rock formation.

If you have the time to spend a couple of days on Capri do so.  You then get the chance to sample the night-life which is mostly based around the restaurants.  But the best is people watching.  Sit at a restaurant table in the Square overlooked by the Baroque Cathedral and watch the wealthy residents and visitors tricked out in their finery.  It is almost balletic watching them pass to and fro, greeting friends and standing to chat.  Then the group splits and they wander off to meet other friends.

Great fun, especially when seeing the poseurs!

Whatever you do when visiting that part of Italy you must go to the romantic Isle of Capri or, to give it its other title, the “Island of Love”.  Once you’ve been you’ll never forget the flowers, the perfumes or the brilliant views.