A Procession of Royal Coaches

When looking at the Royal coaches on display at The Royal Mews in London, the only word I could think of to describe them was a 'procession'. Shining, trimmed with 'gold' and some with crystal lamps they are an array of elegance.

The landaus are frequently used, both with the hoods up (cold weather and rain) but are best recognised when the hoods are down. Such as for Royal Weddings and State occasions. Annually they are used at Ascot when HM Queen Elizabeth II entertains guests at Windsor Castle.

The Royal Mews, which is open to the public, also has some other magnificent coaches.

One of the newer carriages is The Diamond Jubilee State Coach which is used for State Visits and the State Opening of Parliament. I can understand why it is used for the latter. Having stood in the wind and rain waiting to wave to Her Majesty as she passes by I am sure she appreciates the fact that this coach has heating. It also has electric windows and stabilisers - the latter being a good enough reason to use it for State Visits.

Made in Australia and incorporating artifacts into the bodywork it is a mobile Museum celebrating the history of Great Britain. For example, fragments from Henry VIII's Mary Rose, the former Royal Yacht Britannia and a cross on the top carved from wood from HMS Victory. Then there are fragments from the Stone of Destiny, Isaac Newton's apple tree - I could go on but the list would take a whole article. The lamps are handmade Edinburgh Crystal and the door handles have 24 diamonds and 130 sapphires from New Zealand. Together with the gilding it really is a magnificent vehicle.

There are many other coaches - only some of which go on display - there isn't room for them all! For example, there is the Scottish State Coach which was built in the 19^th century and began as a glass coach owned by Princess Mary of Adelaide, Duchess of Teck.  In 1969 it was given a new roof and has a model of the crown of Scotland on its roof – hence its name.  The advantage to spectators when this coach is in use is that it has large glass windows and glass panels in the roof giving plenty of illumination of the occupants.  On the doors are the royal arms for Scotland and the insignia of the Order of the Thistle.  With its gold filigree around the roof this is a very elegant carriage.

Queen Alexandra’s State Coach, described in 1865 as a ‘plain town coach’, was converted into a ‘glass state coach’ in 1893 for the then Princess of Wales (later Queen Alexandra).  During the State Opening of Parliament the Imperial State Crown is carried in this coach ahead of the Queen’s Procession to the Houses of Parliament.  Compared to some other carriages this one is rather sombre looking with a replica crown on the roof. The royal arms of England and insignia of the Order of the Garter are on the panels.

The Irish State Coach was built for Queen Victoria but the woodwork was destroyed in a fire in 1911.  It wasn’t until 1988 that the Royal Mews Carriage Restorers completely restored it.  At first glance it seems to be a very serious coach for a serious purpose – until you look at the roof which is a glorious array of gold filigree topped by a crown.  

The Australian State Coach was built in 1988 and presented to the Queen during her Royal Visit to Australia.  It is a very pretty carriage with trumpeting cherubs on top and Waterford crystal lamps showing a design of the Queen’s head.

One of the most recognisable coaches is the beautiful Glass Coach – so called for its large windows – which is used to convey Royal Brides to their weddings.  It was built in 1910 as a sheriff’s town coach and bought by the Royal Household before King George V’s coronation in 1911.

The most famous coach of all is the Gold State Coach, which is kept indoors.

In 1762 an entry in a journal kept by the Clerk of the Stables at the Royal Mews says that at the beginning of the reign of George III a ‘very superb’ State Coach was ordered to be built.  Later in the journal it says that on 24^th November 1762 the new State Coach was brought to the Mews and at 8.00 a.m. eight cream horses were put to it to try it around the mews.  Eight horses are needed to pull it as it weighs four tons.

The framework of the body has eight palm trees which branch out to support the roof.  Each of the four corner trees rises from a lion’s head and are laden with trophies symbolising the victories of Great Britain in the Seven Years War that ended just before the coach was completed.

There are two gilded tritons fore and aft which appear to support the coach.  On the roof are three cherubs representing England, Scotland and Ireland.  They support the Royal Crown and hold the Sceptre, the Sword of State and the Ensign of Knighthood.

The panels on the front, back and sides are by Giovanni Pattista Cipriani, a Florentine painter and engraver who came to London in 1755. 

The Royal Mews also houses the horses that are needed to pull these carriages.  If visiting during the Royal summer holiday the chances are that the horses won’t be there.  They are taken away to enjoy some freedom in the countryside but their 'posh' bridles and harnesses are on display along with the uniforms used by the footmen and grooms (drivers).

As well as transport of a bygone era, the Royal fleet of cars is also kept at the Mews with one limousine usually on display with a prancing horse on the bonnet instead of the winged Victory normally associated with Rolls-Royce.

Even if you cannot go to visit the Palace, you can at least see these magnificent coaches. 

Beautiful Capri, the Island of Love

Some of my most favourite views in the world are from the top of Monte Solaro near Anacapri (on the island of Capri) – nearly 2,000ft. above the Bay of Naples.  When it is misty, and with the other small islands scattered about on the azure water, it looks mysterious.  Rather like a Japanese painting.

Looking down you can see all the shades of the water, from deep sapphire blue to azure, to green, to pale turquoise.  Then there is the rugged coastline with cliffs rising from the aquamarine shallows.  From here you get a 360 degree panorama showing, when it is clear, Naples, Sorrento, Vesuvius and the neighbouring island of Ischia.

Inland are terraced hills, some adorned with red-roofed white homes and clumps of trees, and the occasional splash of bright blue of a swimming pool.

On arrival in Capri and looking up from the harbour on the Marina Grande to the town above it looks like a tough climb, but don’t despair.  There are buses, cabs and a funicular waiting to take you to Capri Town.

To get to Anacapri, take a bus or a cab up the hair-raising drive to the Square.  To reach the summit of Monte Solaro you literally have to jump onto the chair-lift to see those brilliant views.  (Alternatively you can walk up but that is best left to experienced hikers).

The chair-lift swings out of town over back gardens with men maybe doing some weeding and their ladies hanging out the washing.  Then it is a gentle ride up the slope.  Just like being a bird.  No sounds of machinery, no cars, no loud music, just the swish of the chair on the cable, the breeze soughing through the trees and the delicate perfumes of the herbs and the pines. And at the top there are footpaths and a café so you can stroll around to see all of the scenery then sit down with a cooling drink before jumping onto the chair-lift for the return journey.

Back down in the Square stroll and drool over the designer clothes and the jewellery in the shops.  Or have a snack, but be warned, meals are very expensive in Capri.

An alternative to the shops is the little church of St. Michele in Piazza San Nicola.  The church was founded in 1719 and for a small financial donation you can go in to admire the mosaic floor and walk around the church – on boardwalks which protect the floor.  The mosaic depicts the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden of Eden. And I love the statue of a young boy dressed as a Roman soldier and wielding a sword, which stands in the entrance.

Capri Town offers more shops, luxury hotels, cafes and restaurants and the opportunity to stroll across to the other side of the island. 

All around the Town are Medieval alleys to investigate and narrow lanes up and down between multi-coloured villas and gardens.  Intermingling aromas of garlic and cheese and of the abundant flowers greet you.  Especially prolific is the bougainvillea with its purple or crimson flowers scaling house walls or draped over garden fences.

Before leaving Capri I took a boat trip.  There is, of course, the famous Blue Grotto but, be warned, it is best visited in the morning and to enter it, one has to lie flat in the boat.  Not for me, I’m afraid.

I went on the coastal cruise which is awe-inspiring.  The craggy, shrub spattered cliffs rise almost sheer from the sea.  Look up and there is someone sunbathing on top of a rocky outcrop.  No it isn’t.  It is a very lifelike black statue!

I may have missed the Blue Grotto but I wasn’t disappointed.  There is another one that is open to the sea.  Here are the most wonderful rock formations seemingly stretching up into infinity.  And the sea is the most gorgeous turquoise you have ever seen.

To try to describe anything else in detail would be an anti-climax but, if sailing along that coast, look up and see if you can see the “anteater”.  That’s my name for a most extraordinary rock formation.

If you have the time to spend a couple of days on Capri do so.  You then get the chance to sample the night-life which is mostly based around the restaurants.  But the best is people watching.  Sit at a restaurant table in the Square overlooked by the Baroque Cathedral and watch the wealthy residents and visitors tricked out in their finery.  It is almost balletic watching them pass to and fro, greeting friends and standing to chat.  Then the group splits and they wander off to meet other friends.

Great fun, especially when seeing the poseurs!

Whatever you do when visiting that part of Italy you must go to the romantic Isle of Capri or, to give it its other title, the “Island of Love”.  Once you’ve been you’ll never forget the flowers, the perfumes or the brilliant views.