Monday 28 March 2016

Even Travel Writers have Travel Woes


Always when I am on a cruise or holiday I seem to meet up with people who complain about various things not going right. Very often it is that they have chosen the wrong holiday but don't want to admit it. Sometimes, especially on a cruise, if something goes wrong - either with the ship or the weather or anything else you can think of - the complaints are hung out on the line.
Let me tell you about my latest cruise -

The first port of call was Andalsnes and the tour I went on was delightful. Whenever we got off the coach the pavements were clear of snow and ice. But, come the second port of call, Tromso, not only were there some hills and slopes I couldn't have managed, but the pavements hadn't been cleared of snow and ice - just gritted. So I did not get to see the Arctic Cathedral, the Planetarium or the Museum.

This was NOT the fault of the shipping line or the tours department. It was MY fault. I should have checked out the excursion and the town more thoroughly.

Then came the BIG NIGHT OUT. Going to find the Northern Lights. As it would be below freezing we were all well wrapped up - and had to unwrap on the coach as it was an hour's drive to get to the camp. There we hurried to the cabin where hot chocolate and cake awaited us. After I had had mine I braved the cold and went outside. Fortunately there was enough snow that my boots could get a good grip but there was a horrendous north wind which was fine if it was behind you but trying to walk into it was a nightmare. I strolled, I stood, I sat on benches and like everyone else I looked up at the sky. Saw stars and clouds. Didn't see any lights. Back indoors for a thaw out. Another try to see the lights. A guide pointed to something in the sky - he could see it, I couldn't but I pointed the camera and took a photo. Nothing. The problem is that to the naked eye the 'lights' often look like wispy clouds. It is only when you photograph them that you see the colours. All those lovely photos we see in magazines and on telly are taken with special time-release cameras and videos. The average camera doesn't photograph them well at all.

I gave up and found a coach to get me back to the ship. Some people on the later tours did see the lights so my advice is that if you are ever going, take a tour after 9.00 p.m. I suspect that the  lights are stronger then.

The next morning I woke up at 6.00 and we were still in port - and it was snowing. Turns out we should have left at 3.30 a.m. but because of the tremendous wind we needed two tugs to get us safely away from the dock and only one tug was available. We finally left at midday after a second tug came to our aid.

We should have called at Stavanger for a morning but now there wasn't time. Of course there were complains and suggestions that if we had speeded up we could have been at that city for the afternoon. As I pointed out - on several occasions - there may not have been room in the port later in the day. Not to mention the fact that shipping is not so much monitored as martialled through the channel between the UK and the European mainland. Think aeroplane take off and landing times and how they are monitored.

I will, when I have a moment to spare, do a blog on the wonderful drive through the Romesdalen Valley from Andalsnes.

Wednesday 2 March 2016

Sao Miguel in the Atlantic

Ponta Delgada, the capital of Sao Miguel in the Azores, was once a fishing village on the south coast and is now the port much visited by cruise ships.  Long ago it was fortified against attacks by pirates then in the 18th and 19th centuries economic growth brought prosperity.  The result of this was the building of palaces, mansions, churches and monuments so lots of interesting things to see during a stroll.

On the drive from Ponta Delgada to Ribeira Grande on the north coast is through some splendid countryside. Farms where black and white Friesian and Jersey cows graze, then on through plantations of pineapples, bananas, sugar beet, chicory and vineyards.

The first settlers in Ribeira Grande were drawn to the area by the fast flowing streams where they built water mills to help the weaving of linen and wool. Some of the houses in the town have pretty wrought-iron balconies while others have ceramic tiled facades and, of course, there are several churches.  On either side of the river are beautiful gardens through which to stroll and relax taking in the sights and aromas of the colourful flowerbeds, lush green lawns and trees.

Tea Plantation
The road along the northern coast is high above the fantastic rocky coastline and aquamarine sea.  Along here are market gardens and farms, flowers such as amaryllis, pink belladonna, azaleas and camellias abound.  There are also chestnut trees and tea plantations.  (The teas grown here are orange pekoe and green.) 

One of the most famous areas on Sao Miguel is the Furnas Valley which is a huge volcanic crater containing a lake and gardens and surrounded by tree covered hills.  The gardens contain the usual array of brilliant flowers along with ferns and bracken, bright green Japanese cedars and araucarias. 

Tucked in among the trees on one side of the lake is the Gothic Jose de Canto Chapel which is dedicated to Our Lady of Victories.  With its reflection in the still waters of the lake it makes a very pretty and popular picture for photographers.

In the town of Furnas the Caldeiras are spectacular with geysers of boiling water and medicinal mud.  There are even taps of mineral waters from which people fill bottles and jugs for the home although, having tasted some of the water I wonder why? Make sure you have a large handkerchief or scarf with which to cover your mouth and nose when strolling among the geysers - the smell is horrendous!
 
What I really enjoyed was visiting the beautiful Terra Nostra Park.  It was created in the 18th century by Thomas Hickling and has many walking trails, lakes and streams, plenty of colourful and exotic flowers, and ancient trees.  The swimming pool is extraordinary.  Here is not garish blue water but an enormous lake of thermal iron water – brownish.  It looks very dirty but is very healthful.

Several people I met on the cruise (P&O of course) and who also went ashore on the island told me that they are planning to go back for a holiday. What a good idea.