Friday 15 November 2013

Tobogganing in Madeira


As a child I never tried sliding down the stairs on a tray but I would imagine the sensation was similar to sitting in a laundry basket charging down a hill. Actually it was a wickerwork toboggan in Madeira.  Exhilarating and just a little nerve racking.  Especially when coming to a bend, when the two "guides" manoeuvred the toboggan so that we were at an angle as we cornered. Or when we were approaching a crossroad and wondering if we would stop. We did. We were then pulled across the flat section and set off again down the last hill. I wouldn't have missed the mile long experience for anything.

Everywhere on the island there are hills so the residents don't need gyms to keep fit.  They are all natural mountaineers as their houses seem to be either on top or halfway down the hills with vast flights of steps needed to reach them. 

The scenery is spectacular and the scents that surround you are fantastic.  As you drive through forests of eucalyptus trees you can feel your sinuses clearing.  And everywhere there seem to be flowers such as hibiscus from palest pink through to flame, the elegant cream trumpets of the datura, and agapanthus. A bus journey from just outside Funchal into the city reveals riots of purple and crimson bougainvillea, a plethora of pyrostegia (a climber with a mass of clear orange blooms popularly known as Golden Shower), stately strelitza, red plastic looking anthuriums and, wherever they can get a foothold, nasturtiums. These riot everywhere, including tumbling down the walls of the gorges.
 
Colourful orchid
Wickerwork is a big industry on the island. Like the exquisite embroidery, it was introduced in the early 19th century. The willows were imported from Portugal and can be seen in the east of the island and, like the embroidery and knitting, it is a cottage industry.  Wherever you go in Madeira you will see examples of the canework, be it hotel furniture, baskets in the market - or the toboggans.
 Having mentioned the hills I'm sure you don't need reminding to take comfortable walking shoes.  Also wise to wear them in Funchal and some towns and villages where there are cobblestones. Not the greatest things for walking on.

Bus services are plentiful and all start in Funchal. No matter where you want to go: the Botanical Gardens, Blandys Gardens, Camara do Lobos - the small fishing village much painted by Sir Winston Churchill, anywhere around Funchal or up into the hills to Monte to take a toboggan ride.
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