Wednesday 2 March 2016

Sao Miguel in the Atlantic

Ponta Delgada, the capital of Sao Miguel in the Azores, was once a fishing village on the south coast and is now the port much visited by cruise ships.  Long ago it was fortified against attacks by pirates then in the 18th and 19th centuries economic growth brought prosperity.  The result of this was the building of palaces, mansions, churches and monuments so lots of interesting things to see during a stroll.

On the drive from Ponta Delgada to Ribeira Grande on the north coast is through some splendid countryside. Farms where black and white Friesian and Jersey cows graze, then on through plantations of pineapples, bananas, sugar beet, chicory and vineyards.

The first settlers in Ribeira Grande were drawn to the area by the fast flowing streams where they built water mills to help the weaving of linen and wool. Some of the houses in the town have pretty wrought-iron balconies while others have ceramic tiled facades and, of course, there are several churches.  On either side of the river are beautiful gardens through which to stroll and relax taking in the sights and aromas of the colourful flowerbeds, lush green lawns and trees.

Tea Plantation
The road along the northern coast is high above the fantastic rocky coastline and aquamarine sea.  Along here are market gardens and farms, flowers such as amaryllis, pink belladonna, azaleas and camellias abound.  There are also chestnut trees and tea plantations.  (The teas grown here are orange pekoe and green.) 

One of the most famous areas on Sao Miguel is the Furnas Valley which is a huge volcanic crater containing a lake and gardens and surrounded by tree covered hills.  The gardens contain the usual array of brilliant flowers along with ferns and bracken, bright green Japanese cedars and araucarias. 

Tucked in among the trees on one side of the lake is the Gothic Jose de Canto Chapel which is dedicated to Our Lady of Victories.  With its reflection in the still waters of the lake it makes a very pretty and popular picture for photographers.

In the town of Furnas the Caldeiras are spectacular with geysers of boiling water and medicinal mud.  There are even taps of mineral waters from which people fill bottles and jugs for the home although, having tasted some of the water I wonder why? Make sure you have a large handkerchief or scarf with which to cover your mouth and nose when strolling among the geysers - the smell is horrendous!
 
What I really enjoyed was visiting the beautiful Terra Nostra Park.  It was created in the 18th century by Thomas Hickling and has many walking trails, lakes and streams, plenty of colourful and exotic flowers, and ancient trees.  The swimming pool is extraordinary.  Here is not garish blue water but an enormous lake of thermal iron water – brownish.  It looks very dirty but is very healthful.

Several people I met on the cruise (P&O of course) and who also went ashore on the island told me that they are planning to go back for a holiday. What a good idea.




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