Apsley House, Hyde Park Corner

As you stand on the pavement at Hyde Park Corner and watch the traffic hurtle around the square it is difficult to imagine that this was once the edge of London Town.  Go and look at the address of the large house on the corner of Park Lane.  No. 1 London.  That is the address of Apsley House, the London home of the Dukes of Wellington.  The first incumbent of that title being, of course, the great Commander who defeated Napoleon at the Battle of Waterloo.

Apsley, with its Regency interior, is probably the only town house still existing intact in London.  Built in the late 18^th century for the second Earl of Bathurst it was later purchased by the Marquess Wellesley.  Brother of the Duke of Wellington.  The Duke bought the house from his brother in 1817 and proceeded to have work carried out on the Robert Adam building by Benjamin Dean Wyatt. 

Wyatt added two large bays on the western side – including the picture gallery – and added a Corinthian portico to the front.  The whole structure was then encased in Bath stone. 

The staircase from the inner hall winds around the wall, above which is a glass dome.  The balustrade is a pretty white and gold iron confection while at the bottom of the staircase is an 11ft. statue by Canova.  It is of Napoleon, who ordered it to be made but once it was finished he rejected it.  Maybe he didn’t like the fact that the small statue of Victory in his right hand has her back to him.  Prophecy?

The prettiest room is the Piccadilly Drawing Room, with its yellow walls, white and gold ceiling and friezes by Robert Adam and a magnificent crystal chandelier.  At one end is an apse, in which there is a large mirror which reflects and doubles the beauty of the room.

The Waterloo Gallery is breathtaking.  There is a huge crystal chandelier depending from the central dome and the white and gold ceiling incorporates the badge and collar of the Order of the Garter.  With the gilt cornices above the doors and windows and the gold of the ceiling this room must look splendid at night.  Especially as the windows are fitted with sliding mirrors making the room resemble the Galerie de Glaces at Versailles. 

The room is now a picture gallery with many paintings by artists such as Rubens, Van Dyck, Goya and Valezquez on display.  The first Duke once had as many as 130 in here, but that was overdoing it somewhat.  The excess paintings are divided between the other rooms, making it much easier to appreciate them. 

I always think that the Plate and China Room should be left to last as it is stuffed full of fantastic items.  Sevres porcelain, silver and gold, statues, plaques, snuff boxes and the magnificent Egyptian Service by Sevres.  The centerpiece of this is the entrance to the Temple of Karnak.  Above the fireplace are ten of the Duke of Wellington’s batons – some British and others presented to him by other European countries. The whole lot is mind-blowing.

The Wellington Arch, Hyde Park Corner

Exeter's Woollen Trail

River Exe at Cricklepit Bridge

In the 16^th and 17^th centuries one of Devon’s main products was wool.  This was in the form of cloth which was finished on Exe Island in Exeter and shipped from there to France, Spain, Portugal and Holland. That was until the Napoleonic wars and the advent of woollen mills in the north of England.

Whilst in Exeter I took myself on the self-guided walk of the Woollen Trail.  Starting at the Guildhall I strolled down the High Street to find Mint Lane which leads to St. Nicholas’ Priory.  Built nearly 1,000 years ago as a Benedictine Monastery, the priory was partly destroyed during the Dissolution.  Some of this building has also been home to two of the city’s prominent wool merchants.

Turning about I returned to the High Street/Fore Street, then it was a right turn to find Tucker’s Hall.  This is where the Clothworkers Guild met to the discuss the quality of workmanship and apprenticeships.  The gates are fascinating – the tools of the trade are in the ironwork.

The Old Bridge

Back to Fore Street and the New Bridge from where you can see the remains of the Old Exe Bridge.  The first bridge built there was in 1200 and it was this bridge that packhorses and horse-drawn carts used to access the town.

Cricklepit Mill

Exe Island isn’t really an island, but a section of land that juts out into the River Exe.  Once upon a time it was an industrial area with mills, fulling stocks, cloth drying sheds and racks.  Apparently the noise was horrendous as heavy hammers pounded the newly dyed cloth.  Cricklepit Mill is located here and was one of the water mills used to supply the necessary water.

Custom House and coffee shop

The walk continues along Commercial Road to the Quays but I cut through between the buildings to find Cricklepit Bridge over the now peaceful river and spent time watching the swans.  Then I headed for the Quays, a sit down and a cup of coffee.  It was a lovely morning as I sat outside the small coffee shop beside the Custom House.

There are two other self-guided walks – the Exeter Medieval Trail and The City Wall.  Leaflets can be picked up at the Exeter Visitor Information Centre which is near the bus station on Paris Street.