A Rail Trip through the High Douro Valley

The River Douro from the train

Even if you aren’t an avid train buff, this journey is a MUST as it is one of the most scenic in Europe.

We caught the train in Ruega and travelled alongside the River Douro to Pocinho.  For most of the journey we were higher than the river so the views were fantastic.  For the first part of the journey the river was on the right and on the left it was rocks, trees and bushes but eventually the scenery appeared on that side.  Vineyards, valleys, lakes and rivers.

Between the steep hills of vineyards there are tributaries of the Douro looking like sparkling ribbons throwing back reflections of the trees and sky.  Dotted here and there are mansion houses guarded by yew trees.  Now and again can be seen a small holding with orchards of olive, walnut and almond trees.  I even spotted an ‘orchard’ of prickly pear cacti.

One of the beautifully decorated stations

Further along the route the train crosses the Douro so passengers on the lefthand side of the train can watch the green waters of the river gliding past.  Along the way the train made a few stops which wasn’t a hardship as some of the stations are beautifully decorated with blue and white tiles.

The coach met us at Pocinho to take us to Meda which is the eastern limits of the port wine region.

The Pillory in front of the castle at Penedono

Following lunch and some free time we were then taken to Penedono.  This is an ancient village perched on a rock crest 974m above sea level.  In the square was a display of instruments of torture - anyone for the rack?  Across the road is a crenellated medieval castle. In front of the castle is a tall and ornate stone pillar.  Locally it is called a ‘pillory’ and has been there since the 16th century.

This was a great day out but for those requiring a steam train, you have to go on a Saturday.

This was a part of the River Douro trip with Saga. 

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Lamego, a beautiful town in the Douro Valley

The most spectacular view in town is looking up to the Baroque sanctuary of Nossa Senhora dos Remedios with its twin towers and flights of blue and white tiled steps.  Some people do make the climb but the preference is to walk down them.  The easiest way to reach the church is to drive up.  The views over the town are stupendous and, during September, the Jupiter trees were in full bloom with branches laden with mauve flowers. 

Following a look around inside the church and a part of the grounds, we were let loose in the town and while some people elected sit at an open air cafe for a refreshing drink I - and my camera - went for a wander.

In the centre of the main square - actually circular - is a remembrance statue of a soldier.  By taking one of the side roads to look at the shops I discovered a super modern statue dedicated to the fire-fighters.

A very popular food in Portugal is something called Bacalao which is salt cod.  There was a freezer full of it in a supermarket and I was amused to see a notice on the door of a nearby dress shop - “No entry with bacalao”.  Why not?  Out of the freezer it stinks to high heaven!

Back to the soldier statue.  Stand with your back to the Sanctuary and look straight down the road.  In the centre of the road looking towards the Bishop’s Palace are some colourful shady gardens through which to stroll.  At the end of the gardens across the road to the Bishop’s Palace look to the right and there is Lamego Cathedral.  To the left and on a hill is the Castle, which isn’t open to the public.  It is the headquarters for the Boy Scouts who, some years ago, worked hard on the derelict castle and were rewarded for their efforts.

 

The Bishop’s Palace has a museum in which there is a large collection of religious paintings (what else do you expect in such a museum?) and some sculptures.

As well as the shops there are many restaurants in Lamego - it is sometimes difficult to choose between them.  Me?  For lunch I bought some snack food in the supermarket and sat in the gardens to watch the world go by - an interesting pastime no matter where you are in the world.

The view across Lamego from the Sanctuary

Although I was on a Saga holiday, Lamego makes for a good centre if you prefer to hire a car to tour the region.

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