Sunday 1 December 2013

Bellver Castle, Palma, Mallorca


Whether you are sailing into Palma or strolling along the promenade called Paseo Maritimo, two buildings dominate the view.  The Cathedral and Bellver Castle, which face each other across the Inner Harbour.

The circular castle with its prominent Keep stands proudly above the City, surrounded by Bellver Woods.  Like all good castles, it is on a hill so, unless you have strong legs and can climb the hill, to reach it you need either a car, a taxi or the hop-on-hop-off tour bus.

Built in the 14th c. by King James II of Mallorca Bellver is one of the most original buildings in the island's history.  It is made of sandstone and is circular with a central courtyard surrounded by 21 arches.  The floor above has 42 arches.  The four large towers face the points of the compass with the Keep (facing north) which is set off to one side.  Several Spanish monarchs have stayed at the castle, including Queen Isabella II, Alfonso XII and Alfonso XIII.  King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia have also visited it.

During the 18th and 19th centuries the castle was a prison and, during the Spanish Civil War more than 800 republicans (supporters of the lawfully elected democratic government) were imprisoned here.  Now it houses museums including the Palma History Museum and the Despuig Collection of Classical Sculptures.

On the ground floor is the history museum and a Projection Room which is used for education purposes.  The upper story has the Chapel, the oratory of which is dedicated to St. Mark.  The presbytery floor has the original tiles in a green geometric design.

The next room is dedicated to the Spanish Justice Minister, Gaspar Melchor de Jovellanos who was imprisoned at the castle during the reign of Carlos IV (early 19th c).   This is the room that Jovellanos occupied as testified by a memorial tablet and bust.  In the Royal Chamber there are two paintings, one of Jaime I and the other of Jaime III, as well as a throne.

In the late 18th and early 19th centuries Cardinal Antoni Despuig y Dameto collection Roman sculptures and tablets.  One of the rooms on this upper floor contains them and they are gorgeous. 

The last room was the kitchen which originally had a fireplace in the centre - space that is now covered with a model of the castle and park.

I suspect that many people visit Bellver Castle for one reason only - to see the views from the 'Upper terrace' and the Keep.  As the Keep has a narrow spiral staircase of 118 steps I didn't go up but I did stroll around the terrace to admire the views.  Apart from the City itself, the hill town of Genova can be seen to the north while to the west the view is towards Cala Mayor and St. Augustin.

Amazingly, despite having once lived in Mallorca, I had never before had the opportunity to visit this fascinating castle. 


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