As a child I
never tried sliding down the stairs on a tray but I would imagine the sensation
was similar to sitting in a laundry basket charging down a hill. Actually it
was a wickerwork toboggan in Madeira. Exhilarating and just a little nerve
racking. Especially when coming to a
bend, when the two "guides" manoeuvred the toboggan so that we were
at an angle as we cornered. Or when we were approaching a crossroad and
wondering if we would stop. We did. We were then pulled across the flat section
and set off again down the last hill. I wouldn't have missed the mile long
experience for anything.
Everywhere on the island there are hills
so the residents don't need gyms to keep fit.
They are all natural mountaineers as their houses seem to be either on
top or halfway down the hills with vast flights of steps needed to reach
them.
The scenery is spectacular
and the scents that surround you are fantastic. As you drive through forests of eucalyptus
trees you can feel your sinuses clearing. And everywhere there seem to be flowers such
as hibiscus from palest pink through to flame, the elegant cream trumpets of
the datura, and agapanthus. A bus journey from just outside Funchal into the
city reveals riots of purple and crimson bougainvillea, a plethora of
pyrostegia (a climber with a mass of clear orange blooms popularly known as
Golden Shower), stately strelitza, red plastic looking anthuriums and, wherever
they can get a foothold, nasturtiums. These riot everywhere, including tumbling
down the walls of the gorges.
Wickerwork is a
big industry on the island. Like the exquisite embroidery, it was introduced in
the early 19th century. The willows were imported from Portugal and
can be seen in the east of the island and, like the embroidery and knitting, it
is a cottage industry. Wherever you go
in Madeira you will see examples of the
canework, be it hotel furniture, baskets in the market - or the toboggans.
Having
mentioned the hills I'm sure you don't need reminding to take comfortable walking
shoes. Also wise to wear them in Funchal
and some towns and villages where there are cobblestones. Not the greatest
things for walking on.
Bus services are plentiful
and all start in Funchal. No matter where you want to go: the Botanical
Gardens, Blandys Gardens, Camara do Lobos - the small fishing village much
painted by Sir Winston Churchill, anywhere around Funchal or up into the hills
to Monte to take a toboggan ride.
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