Peaceful Lithuania

During the visit to the north of Lithuania I felt very much at peace.  Probably because everyone I met was happy - hardworking, but happy.

We docked at the comparatively new cruise terminal at Klaipeda which seems to be a mix of post World War II buildings and some very new and stylish ones.  Later in our tour when we had time to look around I was pleased to see that there is a very small 'old' town.

But first we simply drove through the town and north to the seaside resort of Palanga.  On the outskirts we visited the Botanical Gardens and an Amber Museum which is housed in the Tiskeviciai Palace.  This is a 19th century neo-renaissance style mansion - and wouldn't you know, undergoing restoration.  This being the case we only got to see a small part of the collection of amber artifacts.

The gardens are lovely having gradually brought back to the original layout, a few statues dotted about, a picturesque lake together with swans and a small white bridge, and some flower beds. 

It was then on to Palanga proper.  This is a popular resort with a long sandy beach reached by the Basanavicius Promenade.  A long and colourful pedestrianised street with souvenir shops, cafes, restaurants and various entertainments along the way.  Having done a lot of walking through the botanical gardens there was no way I would make it to the beach and back.  They need a land train for the 'less able'.

Back to Klaipeda.  At one time this was a part of Germany and called Memel.  Under the Treaty of Versailles it became independent and in 1923 became a part of Lithuania, subsequently changing its name.

We were dropped off at Theatre Square.  Look at the theatre and there is a balcony where Hitler had a rant.  In the centre of the square is a sculpture of Annchen von Tharau who was the heroine of a 17th century poem.  (Longfellow translated it - 'Annie of Thorow'.)

Around the edge of the square were stalls that local people had set up to sell their wares, much of it hand made.  There was a problem.  Although Lithuania is in the EU it doesn't yet have Euros and we didn't have the local currency.

In front of the statue was a folk band - jazzed up with a drum kit.  All very toe-tappy.  I understand that a later group from the ship started a conga like, much to the amusement of the locals.

Now it was time to stroll through the old town which didn't take long as it is roughly two streets by two streets.  As well as the old buildings we found the statue of the smug looking cat and, around the corner one of a perky mouse.  One small square is a game of chess - honestly, it comes complete with large pieces to be humped about.

To finish the tour we were treated to a glass of the local beer and traditional garlic bread.  As I don't drink beer I had a coffee.  The garlic bread?  Small pieces of fried bread - enough to chip your teeth - but I couldn't taste any garlic.  Perhaps they forgot to use it!  

Charming Tallinn

As our ship sailed from St. Petersburg towards Estonia we hoped that in Tallinn the weather would be kinder.  After all, it was June.

We were doomed to disappointment - it was freezing.  Apparently the previous day there had been a freak snowstorm.  So there I was well layered clothes-wise (trousers, tee-shirt, summer tunic, thin cardigan and a showerproof jacket) and hoped that I would stay warm but I really needed boots and gloves as well!

This was my first visit to Tallinn and I had heard a lot about it.  As a friend told me - if you love Prague you'll adore Tallinn.  Yes, I do love Prague.

As the land train bumped us over the cobbles through the Lower Town our heads were on swivels with so many wonderful buildings to look at.  In the Town Hall Square is - of course - the Town Hall, 14th century and the only surviving Gothic town hall in northern Europe.  The minaret-like tower was, apparently, modelled on a sketch made by an explorer after his visit to the Orient.  Also in the square is one of the world's oldest continuously running pharmacies. The Town Council Pharmacy has been in operation since at least 1422 but its present facade dates from the 17th century.

Stretching north from Town Hall Square is Pikk (Long Street) where there are the houses of German medieval merchants.  A lot of these houses were built in the 15th century.  What I like so much about them is that they aren't boring and the colours include cream, pink, burgundy, mint green and sky blue. 

Following this half-hour ride we then went by coach through the upper town to Kadriorg Park and the Song Festival Grounds with its natural amphitheatre (30,000 seats) and stage.  Estonians love singing although throughout the Communist oppression they weren't allowed to congregate and sing.  Shortly before the fall of communism people across the country began gathering to form choirs and now there are concerts and competitions all year round.  The largest festival of song is held here in Tallinn.

But that isn't the only occasion when the stage is in use.  All international musical celebrities perform here and there is a huge board displaying their names - Andrea Boccelli, Madonna, Elton John and Rod Stewart to name but four.

At the end of the tour the coach stopped in Lower Tallinn for those who wanted some free time.  Although I would have loved to take a stroll - and more photos - it was far too cold so I returned to the ship for some hot soup.

Now that I know the layout of the city I can do it by myself on foot next time.

The Catherine Palace - a Phoenix

Looking at the palace it is very difficult to realise that it is, for the most part, a reconstruction.  Blame that on the Nazi officers who used the palace during World War II.  They not only looted the place but, before they left, set fire to it. 

Fortunately for future generations, at the beginning of the war most of the artifacts from here (and from The Hermitage and other museums) were removed and hidden in the Urals.  Among the palace's items were photographs and paintings of the rooms and exterior.  It was from these that the palace has been restored with the work continuing.

Many items on display are the originals but where they went missing replicas replace them.  I think congratulations and thanks are in order to the restorers for their patience, artistry and hard work.

To read more about the Catherine Palace please go to the previous blog.

The Catherine Palace, Tsarkoye Selo

Unfortunately the weather for our second day in St. Petersburg didn't improve.  When we drove away from the port it was still raining.  As we were scheduled to arrive at the Catherine Palace before opening time it was an early start.  And what a difference when driving through the city - almost devoid of traffic.

We were one of the first coaches to reach Tsarkoye Selo and as the gates weren't yet open our guide time to check that her microphone and our headsets were working.  Her microphone wasn't but she did - thank goodness - have a spare.

Even though we were early we still had to queue for a while, but we didn't mind as it gave us time to take photos of the beautiful blue, white and gold facade of this 18th century Baroque palace named for Catherine I.  And we were entertained by some musicians.  As the tuba player had to read the music (oompa-oompa) that raised a few laughs.  Oh, and the rain had now stopped.

Inside we were supplied with fabric overshoes so that we wouldn't damage the beautiful floors - probably also saves money on polish!

The tour goes through numerous rooms starting with the glorious Great Hall with its painted ceiling by Guiseppe Valeriani ('The Triumph of Russia'), ornate white and gold decoration, fabulous floor and lots of windows.  As you cannot use flash in these rooms lots of light it very helpful.

 

After filing through three anti-rooms we found ourselves in the Arabesque Hall where official dinners took place.  The name comes from the blue and white decoration - reminiscent of Wedgwood - on the walls and ceiling.

There are several more rooms before the piece de resistance - the famous Amber Room with its breathtaking panels made of amber, some of them containing mosaic pictures.  Until seeing this room I hadn't realised how many shades of amber there are.  And would you believe that these are reconstructions?  In 1942 the Nazi's took the panels to Konigsberg and they disappeared without trace in 1945.

With so many glorious rooms to admire it would take a very long article to describe them - the best thing is to go and see the palace.  The alternative, of course, is to go on line. [www.eng.tzar.ru/museums/palaces/c_atherine].

Following our tour of the palace we then took a stroll through a small section of the gardens to see the lake and some of the small buildings that had been used for various purposes.   My ideal would be to spend a whole day there - a slower tour through the rooms and a lovely stroll in the gardens.  In the sunshine, of course.

White Nights and Rain in St. Petersburg

St. Isaac's Cathedral

As the ship docked in St. Petersburg it was raining - and cold.  Who would have believed it was midsummer?  Fortunately, by the time our coach was on its way taking us on a city tour, the rain had stopped.

I don't care where you live, but when it comes to traffic you ain't seen nothing like it as in Russia's second city.  Although there is a cheap and efficient underground system Russians love their cars and in St. Petersburg parking is free.  That includes double and triple parking.  Add to that it was a Friday - the most popular day for weddings so lots of brides and beautifully decorated stretch limos.  It was also Graduation so difficult to tell which stretch limos were which.  To say nothing of the fact that there was a political conference taking place which meant some roads were closed.

The Hermitage

White nights?  The nights over midsummer when it doesn't get dark.  In St. Petersburg there is always a festive feel and in the square in front of The Hermitage, on 21st June, a huge concert is held.  So we saw the preparations - not on the tour schedule.

Church of the Saviour
on the Spilled Blood

All credit to our driver who managed to negotiate the traffic and sometimes found places to stop so that we could take photos.  Of course we didn't get to see all of the locations on our agenda but that and the murky weather are a great excuse to pay another visit - but not in midsummer.

What did we see - apart from The Hermitage?  The exteriors of St. Isaac's Cathedral (and its dome from a distance), the Church of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood with its colourful domes, the Peter and Paul Fortress with its Cathedral.  This is where many Tsar's and Tsarina's are buried.

St Peter and St. Paul Cathedral

Whichever city I visit there always seems to be restoration work being carried out.  St. Petersburg is no exception.  As President Putin is from this city a lot of money is available for this important work.  I understand that some of the oligarchs are also being encouraged to spend their money on projects!

Between the weather, overcrowding and there being so much more to see in St. Petersburg another visit is definitely called for - hopefully next year.

Gdynia and Sopot on the Polish coast

When you sail into Gdynia the first things you notice are the two museum ships - a naval destroyer and a Tall Ship (built in 1909) - and the Oceanographic Museum.  Although not Polish by birth, Joseph Conrad was once a mariner who sailed from here so he has a statue opposite the museum.

This city is well known for its 20th century architecture variously described as monumentalism, functionalism, modernism and bauhaus.  I prefer boring and ugly - with an occasional exception.  The oldest building is a church - the 13th century St. Michael the Archangel's.

Unfortunately during World War II most of the Old Town was destroyed but it has now been recreated so there are some fabulous monuments, historic gateways, towers and medieval streets through which to wander. 

Public transport is plentiful to get around Gdynia and to Gdansk - bus/trolley/trains.

Fancy some time at a beach?  Then head for Sopot, a popular spa and seaside resort between Gdynia and Gdansk.  There are miles of soft sand, clear sea, beach cafes and a rather splendid hotel - the Grand Hotel.  This is where many important personages have stayed, including President de Gaulle, Adolf Hitler (during the Nazi take over) and Fidel Castro.

Sopot's main claim to fame is having the longest wooden pier in Europe - 511.5m.  Leading up from the pier is Main Street, or to give it its full title Heroes of Monte Cassino Street.  There are plenty of shops and lovely old buildings and, in some of the streets off it you can see beautifully restored 100 year old apartments.  Main Street is - to coin a stale phrase - where 'it's all at'.  Very crowded in the summer.

The Grand Hotel, Sopot

There are plenty of gorgeous Art Nouveau houses and villas around town which seems to be more parkland than concrete.  In fact, there is a park that stretches alongside the main road from Gdynia to Gdansk.

One thing that the Poles seem to have in common with the British - they love their allotments.  I was told that as so many people live in apartments, they have an allotment with a small chalet so they can stay there over the weekend. 

Gdynia and Sopot are definitely two places to visit when you are on holiday in Gdansk.  Especially as public transport is plentiful.

Colourful Gdansk

The Green Gate

For some of us our first thoughts of the Polish city of Gdansk are docks, Solidarity and Lech Walesa.  Although the momentous events leading to the break-up of the Communist regime and to the start of World War II are commemorated, the jewel in this Hanseatic city is its Medieval centre.

When entering Long Street from the bridge over the River Motlawa you are faced with a noble brick edifice below which are four arches leading through to a street of artwork.  Incidentally, Lech Walesa's office is in this building which is the Green Gate.

The Apothecary's House

Yes, I did say a street of artwork.  On both sides of the street are rows of colourful houses, some of which date back to the Middle Ages and all have some form of artistic adornment.  For example, the Apothecary's House has murals relating to his trade, others have intricate columns and statues such as the Golden House, plasterwork and gilding, murals of medieval figures including one, appropriately above a restaurant, depicting a medieval banquet.  At ground floor level most of these buildings house shops, cafes and restaurants.

During the past twenty years or so a great deal of restoration has been carried out - and it continues.  Along the river banks warehouses have been restored and new ones - replicas of what once stood there - are being constructed.  Rather than function as warehouses they now contain offices, apartments, museums and shops.

Further away from the old town is the beautiful Park Oliwski which has gardens in French and English styles and is a delightful place for a stroll.

In the old town is the brick built St. Mary's Church which while worth a visit is - for me - outclassed by the Baroque Oliwa Cathedral with its three aisles and vaulted basilica.  One of its prized possessions is the late 18th century Rococo organ - 7,876 pipes and 110 organ stops.  Big.

Before leaving Gdansk do pay homage at the Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers - three crosses with anchors - at the shipyard gates.

The shipyards are now, unfortunately, closed but plans are afoot for restoration and revitalisation of the area with people calling for some of the cranes to be restored as a monument.  Sounds like it will be time to revisit Gdansk in five or ten years time.

I only had time to see the city on an excursion from the cruise ship but as there is so much to see I would recommend at least a week there which gives time to visit nearby places of interest.  Maybe spend a day on the beach at Sopot and take a stroll around Gdynia.