Altan Ha and the River Wallace in Belize

Along with Mexico and Guatamala (its neighbours), Belize was once a part of the Mayan nation.  Many people assume that Mayan’s no longer exist.  Not true – their descendents are thriving.  Admittedly some have intermarried with other races.  In Belize as well as Maya there are the Mestizo who are a mix of Maya and Spanish. The drive to the ancient Maya city of Altan Ha from Belize City was rather bumpy but we did arrive safely.  The complex is large with two plazas containing thirteen structures, some of which were temples.  Not all of the ruins have yet been excavated so it is possible to look ‘around the back’ to see grass and brush covered buildings.

It was here that Professor David Pendergast of the Royal Ontario Museum discovered the jade head of the sun god Kinich Ahau.  Excavations began in 1965 when it was realised that Altan Ha had been a trading centre.  As well as the jade head, at least 250 buildings were found in this area.  The head was one of several jade treasures discovered in the Temple of the Green Tomb.  Other pieces included beads, earrings and rings.  The head itself is the largest piece of jade carving found in any of these Maya countries.  Weighing in at four kilos it is nearly 15 centimetres tall.  It is now at the Department of Archaeology in Belmopan. 

Having strolled around the ruins and renovated structures in the two plazas it was time to clamber up the modern wooden staircase to reach the top of one of the pyramids the better to survey the scene. 

From Altan Ha we drove south on the Northern Highway to visit the village of Barrel Broom where we had lunch then boarded the boat for a cruise down the Wallace River.  Or perhaps I should call it the Belize River. 

There are differences of opinion as to how Belize got its name in 1973 after being British Honduras.  One theory is that it is corruption of Wallis – pronounced Wahleez – after the pirate, Peter Wallace. 

So to the cruise down the Wallace/Belize River which was fascinating and exciting with loads of crocodiles enjoying the sun.  We could just about see the Howler monkeys up in the trees as were some of the iguanas.  These are Green Iguanas except that, because it was the mating season, the males were bright orange – to attract the females, of course.   There were also plenty of small colourful birds which didn’t stay still for long enough to identify.  Once out of the river and into the bay the engine was shut down and we indulged in a little Manatee watching.  All you actually see is the mouth popping up out of the water as they breathe, then it was back to our cruise ship. 

By the way, ladies, if offered a drink of Coconut Wine be very, very careful.  Its nickname is ‘Panty Ripper’.

The Lasithi Plateau

The  most famous country visit in this eastern part of Crete is the Lassithi Plateau - actually a flat floored valley.

Our first view of the plateau was from the pass at Seli Ambelou with the ruined stone windmills above the road.  Down on the plain are several small communities dotted about the verdant patchwork of farmland, apple and cherry orchards and vineyards.  Here they also grow vegetables and grain and the small dots of white in the meadows turned out to be sheep.

The road leads down into the valley and round to Psyhro on the southern edge.  Here we parked so that those with strong legs could follow the footpath up to the Dictean Cave where Zeus was fabled to have been born.  Incidentally, for those who cannot do the climb but are really anxious to see the cave there are some donkeys to take you up - at a price, of course.

The rest of us either looked around the souvenir shops and took photos of the valley or sat at one of the cafes and drank freshly squeezed orange juice.

The remains of the old stone windmills

Our late lunch break was at the restaurant at the Seli Ambelou Pass.  It was lovely to sit outside looking over the valley while we ate and discussed the tour.  I was with some people from another hotel (different resort) and realized that I would have had a much better holiday if I had stayed there.

Something the Lasithi Plateau was famous for was its windmills.  A few have been preserved but most are derelict and others merely decorative.

Between the beautiful countryside and the heart-stopping mountain passes this was a fabulous day out - and we were lucky enough to have our favourite guide.

One of many vineyards in the valley

The Cretan Countryside

The distant mountains almost seem to be blue.

 Having chosen the wrong resort in which to spend my holiday, it was a great relief to take excursions into the beautiful countryside with its varied scenery.  The coastline has, of course, its beaches, coves and rocks and, away from the tourist centres, there are delightful villages and small towns to explore. Inland are the mountains (still a little snow on the tops in May!), tree clad hills and valleys.  Some of the towns and villages still have cobbled streets but all have their churches and town square with bars which is where, on Sundays, the men gossip while the women go to church to pray for them.  At least, that is what our guide told us!

To reach the true Cretan  countryside you have to cross the mountains from where the views are fantastic.  Behind us was the shoreline stretching from Hersonissos to Malia with the sun sparkling off the blue water.  Over the top of the pass the scenery dramatically changes.  Olive groves and vineyards, farms and market gardens.  The mountain slopes are decorated with scrub and pine trees and the vistas seem to stretch into infinity.

We stopped off to visit a potter who, in the space of about two minutes created an enormous jug.  Then took a look at his outdoor kiln and wandered in to inspect another studio where he makes smaller items and, of course, roamed the souvenir shop.  Yes, there were some beautiful things that almost tempted me but I long ago decided that I don't need any more  souvenirs.

Following that break we visited a winery - as I've visited more of these than I care to remember, I'm afraid the details of this one escape me.  I do remember using the time viewing a video about the company and the processes as an ideal time for a cat nap.  Fortunately I was awake for the  comedic part of the film - about Raki.  We were told that when offered a glass you should never refuse it.  I guess the camerman hadn't as the pictures, instead of being upright they were lopsided.  What I once heard referred to as 'skew-whiff'.  Definitely skewed - slewed.

Of course there was some wine tasting. What was the wine like?  Not being a wine buff I can only say that they weren't really to my liking.

All in all it was a very pleasant afternoon out made all the better by having a super guide - with a sense of humour.  He brought the story of Zeus into the 21st century by telling us that Zeus left Hera (his wife) and took off in his 'cloud Ferrari', then met Europa. As he really fancied her he called Hera on his mobile to say he'd be away for a while.

Foller that!

The Minoan Palace of Knossos

I first visited Crete many years ago but didn't have the opportunity to go to Knossos.

As that holiday was made during the autumn I had another good reason for this second springtime visit.  To see the wonderful flowers - oleander, bougainvillea, roses, geraniums and wild flowers.  Absolutely beautiful.

The great Palace of Knossos was first excavated in the 19th century but the more extensive excavations done were in the early 20th century.  It was then that Sir Arthur Evans uncovered almost the whole of the palace.

The earliest traces are Neolithic and several palaces (including a Roman one, of course - they got everywhere) have occupied the site.  Some of them were destroyed by earthquakes, at least one by fire and others possibly by warfare.

Remembering that in the 19th and early 20th centuries the mind set so far as excavations was concerned included reconstructions and Sir Arthur fulfilled that desire.  He re-created a multi-storey building covering about 20,000 square metres.  This included some of the  murals that had adorned the original palace.  Those are in the Heraklion Archaeological Museum with copies to be seen at the site.

Following a twenty minute lecture by an official guide - standing in the hot sun (all of us over 60 years old and some disabled) we then commenced our tour of the site. Perhaps they should create an auditorium so we can sit down to be bored out of our skulls.  At our age we already knew the history.  In any case she had already told it to us in the coach.  I began to think of her as a wind up doll with a repeater.

From this large Central Court which had ironically, been used for public meetings we went to the West Court - which had been the official entrance.  Rather like the front entrance to Buckingham Palace that is used for posh events, otherwise the side entrance is used.

The West Wing (oops, shades of the White House in Washington) had the official rooms, both admin and religious.  The latter had a Tripartite Shrine, Sacred Repositories and the Pillar Crypts - sorry, read that off the leaflet.

My favourite is the Throne Room with a basin and alabaster throne (I reckon that's a copy).  Among other things pointed out is an original staircase - you look down to that.  Just imagine the number of people that have stepped on that over the 1,000 or so years.  Could be a lot longer but how do we know whether we are looking at the original stairs or not?

Between actual history and legends it is easy to become confused as to what is real and what is myth, which is why it is a good idea to read it all up before you go.

I lost count how long it took to be taken around the site but probably about an hour.  My suggestion would be to read it up first, then do-it-yourself.  That way you can avoid the coach loads and official guides who seem to take up all the room.  If you are there on your own and and want to listen to any of the guides you can always temporarily tack yourself onto a group.

Not sure whether these pots are original!

 
At the end of the tour of lectures we were surprised there wasn't a written test!