Isle of Man Travel Passes

Couldn't resist photographing this calf

When visiting the Isle of Man you don’t need a car because the public transport system is pretty fantastic.  Everything from modern day buses to steam trains.  In fact, steam train fanatics love the island.  The easiest (and cheapest) way to cope with the various fares is to buy an Explorer Pass.  These are available for various lengths of stay and can be used on all public transport. They can be purchased from the tourist offices at the air- and sea-ports.  If you want to use one of the privately owned trains then you have to pay – usually a nominal amount.

 

So what transport is there apart from the buses?  Along the seafront in Douglas are the Horse Drawn trams and for those of you worried about the horses, don’t be.  They are very well cared for and you can visit them in the stables.  They do a round trip then are taken to the stables for a rest.  On retirement they go to Home of Rest for Old Horses and, yes, you can go and visit them there.

The Electric Railway which began in 1893 runs seventeen miles between Douglas and Ramsey through the most fantastic scenery along the east coast.  Everything from craggy cliffs to gorse topped hills and green glens.  Like the Snaefell railway the carriages are historic and usually consist of two coaches, one covered and one open.  Incidentally, this is the longest vintage railway system in the U.K.  I should clarify that the Electric Railway is actually a tramway and the design of the trams was based on American ones of that era.

 

The Isle of Man Steam railway was formed in 1873 and puffs along between Douglas and Port Erin, a journey of approximately one hour.  The engines are so sweet – sort of baby sized.  Among the stops en route is Castletown, the original capital of the Island.  There are other stops but they are ‘request’ stops.

Port Erin is a picturesque corner of the island, was once a smugglers harbour and later a Victorian resort.

To ‘do’ the Isle of Man by public transport probably takes about two weeks but, if you don’t have two weeks to spare, you do have a good excuse to make return visits.  It really is worth the effort.

Snaefell and Laxey, Isle of Man

Anyone who is a fan of the BBC programme ‘Coast’ and presenter Neil Oliver will remember his comment ‘Could be a car park in Croydon’ as he stood in the clouds at the top of Snaefell, which at 2,036ft it is the highest point of the Isle of Man.  (It is said that on a clear day you can also see England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales.)

When our train reached the summit – or thereabouts – we had a Neil Oliver moment.  Time for a cup of coffee (or tea or something stronger) before the return journey.  Luckily by the time I’d finished my coffee the clouds had passed and we could see the views.  It was weird standing in the shade and looking down at the sun drenched fields and sea.

A Snaefell Railway Carriage

The journey up Snaefell is by historic train from Laxey.  The first one to scale the heights was in 1895 and I should warn you that the trains are no more comfortable now than then – wooden seats.  Hardly surprising as the carriages are either Victorian or Edwardian. 

Not long after we pulled out from Laxey Station the Laxey Wheel came into sight and the driver stopped to let us take photos.  Then we settled down to enjoy the scenery.  Farmland with small fields looking like patchwork.  The polka-dots are grazing sheep.  As the train climbs higher the scenery begins to change to moorland with rocky outcrops.

In the far distance - England

You can leave the train at the Bungalow Station and climb the rest or, like most of us, stay on the train to the top.  Incidentally, the café also serves meals so you can spend some leisure time up there, take a walk and catch a later train back down.

'Lady Isabella' - the Great Laxey Wheel

Laxey can be reached from Douglas and Ramsey by the Electric Railway.   This is where ‘Lady Isabella’ is located.  In other words, the Great Laxey Wheel – that huge much photographed red wheel.  It is the largest working water wheel in the world and the strong of leg can climb the spiral staircase to the viewing platform.  There is also the chance to explore the restored mine shaft.  In 1999 restoration of the former tramway began and it is now possible to ride in a tiny carriage beneath the main Laxey to Ramsey road and the Manx Electric Railway through the longest railway tunnel on the island.

Laxey has two distinct parts, the lower section ‘Old Laxey’ is down on the coast and has a very picturesque harbour and beach.  Plus a promenade along which to stroll.

Good walking shoes are a great help when discovering the Isle of Man!

The sun did shine!

Astoria - a Pretty Coastal Town in Oregon

The Astoria Column

Think Astoria and you usually add Waldorf in front of it – as in the Waldorf Astoria Hotel.   And this town was named for the fur trader John Jacob Astor.  At first glance from the cruise ship it looked like a collection of pretty coloured dolls houses decorating the hillside.  Interspersed with the deep green of pine trees. 

The first recorded visitors to this area were the American explorers Lewis and Clark and their party of explorers who built Fort Clatsop (named for the local Clatsop Indian Tribe) as somewhere to spend the winter of 1805/6.  The reason for their visit was because President Thomas Jefferson wanted to know if there was a river route to the Pacific Ocean.  The group left Pittsburgh on 31 August 1803 and reached the Pacific in November 1805 by following the Columbia River.   

A replica of the fort is situated just outside the town - a wooden structure with hand-hewn wooden bunks – which look most uncomfortable – tables, benches and chairs.  To add to the atmosphere park rangers are appropriately costumed and re-enact the life of the Corps of Discovery.

In 1811 John Jacob Astor, the New York financier, sent fur traders to the same area to set up a trading post.  It was they who built Fort Astoria.  Since then the town has grown around it and, literally, climbed the hills where, on top of Coxcomb Hill, is the Astoria Column.  All 38 metres of it. It was built in 1926 and is decorated with scenes showing the history of the area.

The views from the top of the hill are breathtaking.  Green hills and fields, trees of various shades from the almost black of the fir trees to the paler greens of deciduous trees.  And, winding through the landscape, the mighty Columbia River. The really strong of leg can get even better views by climbing up the 164 steps inside the column to the viewing platform at the top.

Along River Walk are shops and restaurants, Pier 11 (once a warehouse) now has shops and restaurants inside.  The 14^th Street Ferry Dock has displays about the river, especially of the Columbia Bar which, long ago, was a dangerous place for shipping and, of course, there are some museums.

Don’t be surprised if Astoria looks familiar.  This is a photogenic town that has been used in many films.  ‘Kindergarten Cop’, ‘Teenage Ninja Turtles III’, ‘The Ring II’ and ‘Free Willy’ (Parts I and II) were all filmed here.

Astoria is a stop for cruise liners when relocating to or from Alaska, but if you want to spend some time here, there are some hotels.

Apsley House, Hyde Park Corner

As you stand on the pavement at Hyde Park Corner and watch the traffic hurtle around the square it is difficult to imagine that this was once the edge of London Town.  Go and look at the address of the large house on the corner of Park Lane.  No. 1 London.  That is the address of Apsley House, the London home of the Dukes of Wellington.  The first incumbent of that title being, of course, the great Commander who defeated Napoleon at the Battle of Waterloo.

Apsley, with its Regency interior, is probably the only town house still existing intact in London.  Built in the late 18^th century for the second Earl of Bathurst it was later purchased by the Marquess Wellesley.  Brother of the Duke of Wellington.  The Duke bought the house from his brother in 1817 and proceeded to have work carried out on the Robert Adam building by Benjamin Dean Wyatt. 

Wyatt added two large bays on the western side – including the picture gallery – and added a Corinthian portico to the front.  The whole structure was then encased in Bath stone. 

The staircase from the inner hall winds around the wall, above which is a glass dome.  The balustrade is a pretty white and gold iron confection while at the bottom of the staircase is an 11ft. statue by Canova.  It is of Napoleon, who ordered it to be made but once it was finished he rejected it.  Maybe he didn’t like the fact that the small statue of Victory in his right hand has her back to him.  Prophecy?

The prettiest room is the Piccadilly Drawing Room, with its yellow walls, white and gold ceiling and friezes by Robert Adam and a magnificent crystal chandelier.  At one end is an apse, in which there is a large mirror which reflects and doubles the beauty of the room.

The Waterloo Gallery is breathtaking.  There is a huge crystal chandelier depending from the central dome and the white and gold ceiling incorporates the badge and collar of the Order of the Garter.  With the gilt cornices above the doors and windows and the gold of the ceiling this room must look splendid at night.  Especially as the windows are fitted with sliding mirrors making the room resemble the Galerie de Glaces at Versailles. 

The room is now a picture gallery with many paintings by artists such as Rubens, Van Dyck, Goya and Valezquez on display.  The first Duke once had as many as 130 in here, but that was overdoing it somewhat.  The excess paintings are divided between the other rooms, making it much easier to appreciate them. 

I always think that the Plate and China Room should be left to last as it is stuffed full of fantastic items.  Sevres porcelain, silver and gold, statues, plaques, snuff boxes and the magnificent Egyptian Service by Sevres.  The centerpiece of this is the entrance to the Temple of Karnak.  Above the fireplace are ten of the Duke of Wellington’s batons – some British and others presented to him by other European countries. The whole lot is mind-blowing.

The Wellington Arch, Hyde Park Corner

Exeter's Woollen Trail

River Exe at Cricklepit Bridge

In the 16^th and 17^th centuries one of Devon’s main products was wool.  This was in the form of cloth which was finished on Exe Island in Exeter and shipped from there to France, Spain, Portugal and Holland. That was until the Napoleonic wars and the advent of woollen mills in the north of England.

Whilst in Exeter I took myself on the self-guided walk of the Woollen Trail.  Starting at the Guildhall I strolled down the High Street to find Mint Lane which leads to St. Nicholas’ Priory.  Built nearly 1,000 years ago as a Benedictine Monastery, the priory was partly destroyed during the Dissolution.  Some of this building has also been home to two of the city’s prominent wool merchants.

Turning about I returned to the High Street/Fore Street, then it was a right turn to find Tucker’s Hall.  This is where the Clothworkers Guild met to the discuss the quality of workmanship and apprenticeships.  The gates are fascinating – the tools of the trade are in the ironwork.

The Old Bridge

Back to Fore Street and the New Bridge from where you can see the remains of the Old Exe Bridge.  The first bridge built there was in 1200 and it was this bridge that packhorses and horse-drawn carts used to access the town.

Cricklepit Mill

Exe Island isn’t really an island, but a section of land that juts out into the River Exe.  Once upon a time it was an industrial area with mills, fulling stocks, cloth drying sheds and racks.  Apparently the noise was horrendous as heavy hammers pounded the newly dyed cloth.  Cricklepit Mill is located here and was one of the water mills used to supply the necessary water.

Custom House and coffee shop

The walk continues along Commercial Road to the Quays but I cut through between the buildings to find Cricklepit Bridge over the now peaceful river and spent time watching the swans.  Then I headed for the Quays, a sit down and a cup of coffee.  It was a lovely morning as I sat outside the small coffee shop beside the Custom House.

There are two other self-guided walks – the Exeter Medieval Trail and The City Wall.  Leaflets can be picked up at the Exeter Visitor Information Centre which is near the bus station on Paris Street.

Altan Ha and the River Wallace in Belize

Along with Mexico and Guatamala (its neighbours), Belize was once a part of the Mayan nation.  Many people assume that Mayan’s no longer exist.  Not true – their descendents are thriving.  Admittedly some have intermarried with other races.  In Belize as well as Maya there are the Mestizo who are a mix of Maya and Spanish. The drive to the ancient Maya city of Altan Ha from Belize City was rather bumpy but we did arrive safely.  The complex is large with two plazas containing thirteen structures, some of which were temples.  Not all of the ruins have yet been excavated so it is possible to look ‘around the back’ to see grass and brush covered buildings.

It was here that Professor David Pendergast of the Royal Ontario Museum discovered the jade head of the sun god Kinich Ahau.  Excavations began in 1965 when it was realised that Altan Ha had been a trading centre.  As well as the jade head, at least 250 buildings were found in this area.  The head was one of several jade treasures discovered in the Temple of the Green Tomb.  Other pieces included beads, earrings and rings.  The head itself is the largest piece of jade carving found in any of these Maya countries.  Weighing in at four kilos it is nearly 15 centimetres tall.  It is now at the Department of Archaeology in Belmopan. 

Having strolled around the ruins and renovated structures in the two plazas it was time to clamber up the modern wooden staircase to reach the top of one of the pyramids the better to survey the scene. 

From Altan Ha we drove south on the Northern Highway to visit the village of Barrel Broom where we had lunch then boarded the boat for a cruise down the Wallace River.  Or perhaps I should call it the Belize River. 

There are differences of opinion as to how Belize got its name in 1973 after being British Honduras.  One theory is that it is corruption of Wallis – pronounced Wahleez – after the pirate, Peter Wallace. 

So to the cruise down the Wallace/Belize River which was fascinating and exciting with loads of crocodiles enjoying the sun.  We could just about see the Howler monkeys up in the trees as were some of the iguanas.  These are Green Iguanas except that, because it was the mating season, the males were bright orange – to attract the females, of course.   There were also plenty of small colourful birds which didn’t stay still for long enough to identify.  Once out of the river and into the bay the engine was shut down and we indulged in a little Manatee watching.  All you actually see is the mouth popping up out of the water as they breathe, then it was back to our cruise ship. 

By the way, ladies, if offered a drink of Coconut Wine be very, very careful.  Its nickname is ‘Panty Ripper’.

The Lasithi Plateau

The  most famous country visit in this eastern part of Crete is the Lassithi Plateau - actually a flat floored valley.

Our first view of the plateau was from the pass at Seli Ambelou with the ruined stone windmills above the road.  Down on the plain are several small communities dotted about the verdant patchwork of farmland, apple and cherry orchards and vineyards.  Here they also grow vegetables and grain and the small dots of white in the meadows turned out to be sheep.

The road leads down into the valley and round to Psyhro on the southern edge.  Here we parked so that those with strong legs could follow the footpath up to the Dictean Cave where Zeus was fabled to have been born.  Incidentally, for those who cannot do the climb but are really anxious to see the cave there are some donkeys to take you up - at a price, of course.

The rest of us either looked around the souvenir shops and took photos of the valley or sat at one of the cafes and drank freshly squeezed orange juice.

The remains of the old stone windmills

Our late lunch break was at the restaurant at the Seli Ambelou Pass.  It was lovely to sit outside looking over the valley while we ate and discussed the tour.  I was with some people from another hotel (different resort) and realized that I would have had a much better holiday if I had stayed there.

Something the Lasithi Plateau was famous for was its windmills.  A few have been preserved but most are derelict and others merely decorative.

Between the beautiful countryside and the heart-stopping mountain passes this was a fabulous day out - and we were lucky enough to have our favourite guide.

One of many vineyards in the valley