I first visited Crete many years ago but didn't have the opportunity to go to Knossos.
As that holiday was made during the autumn I had another good reason for this second springtime visit. To see the wonderful flowers - oleander, bougainvillea, roses, geraniums and wild flowers. Absolutely beautiful.
The great Palace of Knossos was first excavated in the 19th century but the more extensive excavations done were in the early 20th century. It was then that Sir Arthur Evans uncovered almost the whole of the palace.
The earliest traces are Neolithic and several palaces (including a Roman one, of course - they got everywhere) have occupied the site. Some of them were destroyed by earthquakes, at least one by fire and others possibly by warfare.
Remembering that in the 19th and early 20th centuries the mind set so far as excavations was concerned included reconstructions and Sir Arthur fulfilled that desire. He re-created a multi-storey building covering about 20,000 square metres. This included some of the murals that had adorned the original palace. Those are in the Heraklion Archaeological Museum with copies to be seen at the site.
Following a twenty minute lecture by an official guide - standing in the hot sun (all of us over 60 years old and some disabled) we then commenced our tour of the site. Perhaps they should create an auditorium so we can sit down to be bored out of our skulls. At our age we already knew the history. In any case she had already told it to us in the coach. I began to think of her as a wind up doll with a repeater.
From this large Central Court which had ironically, been used for public meetings we went to the West Court - which had been the official entrance. Rather like the front entrance to Buckingham Palace that is used for posh events, otherwise the side entrance is used.
The West Wing (oops, shades of the White House in Washington) had the official rooms, both admin and religious. The latter had a Tripartite Shrine, Sacred Repositories and the Pillar Crypts - sorry, read that off the leaflet.
My favourite is the Throne Room with a basin and alabaster throne (I reckon that's a copy). Among other things pointed out is an original staircase - you look down to that. Just imagine the number of people that have stepped on that over the 1,000 or so years. Could be a lot longer but how do we know whether we are looking at the original stairs or not?
Between actual history and legends it is easy to become confused as to what is real and what is myth, which is why it is a good idea to read it all up before you go.
I lost count how long it took to be taken around the site but probably about an hour. My suggestion would be to read it up first, then do-it-yourself. That way you can avoid the coach loads and official guides who seem to take up all the room. If you are there on your own and and want to listen to any of the guides you can always temporarily tack yourself onto a group.
Not sure whether these pots are original! |
At the end of the tour of lectures we were surprised there wasn't a written test!
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