Strolling through Bruges

Bruges has a really romantic corner called Minnewater - the Lake of Love.  As I stood on the bridge and gazed at the still water, at the lawns on either side and at the pairs of graceful swans, I felt a deep sense of peace.  I could imagine young couples strolling hand in hand or lying on the grass and vows being exchanged.  All very romantic.  And before I turned away I spotted several couples.

This is an ancient city which was once a port.  Until the 16^th century it was a great trading post.  Then the River Zwin silted up and the Flemish cloth industry collapsed and Bruges fell asleep.

But, like the Sleeping Beauty it was awoken by a prince.  A strange one – the port of Zeebrugge was built in 1907 and a canal linked it to Bruges.

As Bruges is a walking city you need comfortable shoes.  Strolling really is the only way to see and admire all the streets and buildings.

With such a sumptuous variety of architecture on offer it is difficult to know where to begin. But the canal boats beckon. A smooth, serene sail along narrow waterways which give views, not otherwise seen, of wonderful buildings, with an informative guide telling you what you are seeing and giving a potted history of the City.

Buildings vary from bricks and wood to plaster-faced, plain, ornate, square, hexagonal and octagonal. Some are satisfied with simply edging the water, others hang out over it and at least one spans the canal.

Back on dry land the Main Square is obligatory. It is dominated by medieval buildings such as the 13th c. covered market, a hexagonal belfry (366 steps to the top if you are feeling energetic), and the 14th c. Town Hall - very erect, with towers and turrets reaching to the sky and tall, narrow windows ornamented with the coats of arms of surrounding towns. Across the Square are several 17th c. houses of varying designs.

For a view of the towers of the St. Salvator Cathedral, the church of Notre-Dame and the belfry, I strolled along to the Green Quay (Groene Rei).  It also gave me a chance to sit down and rest, admire the tree-lined gardens and the hump-backed bridges.  Seeing a bas relief pelican over the main entrance to a cluster of pretty little houses I went for a closer look.  It is actually De Pelikaan, homes for the elderly, which was founded in 1714.

 Returning back towards the centre of town I detoured around the back streets and discovered a small square where I found a delightful metal statue - a small carriage with a naked lady stretched across the back seat, a startled looking horse and bowler hatted driver.

As I was on a cruise I had to watch the time so that I didn't miss the return coach.  My few hours did leave me wanting to visit Bruges again.  Would that be the third or fourth time?

Wonderful Copenhagen

'Helter-skelter Spire'

What a well-planned excursion we had in Copenhagen.  First we were taken to see the most popular sights - the Little Mermaid and the Amelienborg Palace.  Following a drive around the city we were dropped off in an older part of town and took a walk before boarding a river boat.

While we were near the Little Mermaid (and impossible to take a photo without someone else being in the picture!) I also had a good look around.  Anchored offshore is the beautiful white Royal Yacht.

The procession of coaches then headed for the Amelienborg Palace which is made up of four identical buildings.  One for Queen Margarethe and Prince Henrik, another the Crown Prince and Princess and their family, a third where banquets are held and the fourth is a museum.  Overlooking the square is the Marble Church (Frederik's Church).  I assume it is named for Frederik V whose equestrian statue is in the square.

Across from the palace are some gardens (crowded of course) with a view across the water of the new Opera House.  All glass and contemporary.

There was one more 'crowded' corner to visit and we were lucky that our driver found somewhere to park.  This was at Churchill Park we took photos of the Gefion Fountain.  Gefion is the Nordic goddess of fertility.  Nearby is a very English looking church which is dedicated to St. Alban and was built at the behest of our Queen Alexandra, who was Danish.

We all thoroughly enjoyed our walk in an old, old part of the city where the buildings have been restored instead of being knocked down.  There was one lovely surprise - a beautiful 'cottage' garden.  Please don't ask me where this area is.  We had driven in so many directions, including past Tivoli, that I have no idea where we were.

The Black Diamond

Following the walk we went across a bridge over a canal to await our boat.  Once boarded and on our way we soon understood why they are so shallow - lots of low bridges.  The boat comes equipped with a guide who kept us busy with our cameras.  I subsequently had to buy a guide book full of pictures so that I can identify my photos.  I do know that we saw the Stock Exchange with its barley sugar twist spire, the Black Diamond (a modern extension to the Royal Library) and the Church of our Saviour, all brown and gold with a spire looking like a helter-skelter.

Before returning to our ship the boat took us around the island of Holmen, a part of which is a military zone.  The rest is now schools, academies, restaurants and bars.  Sounds very busy.

I remember once telling a friend that I wanted to do a city break in Copenhagen.  She asked why?  She doesn't know what she has missed... I'd still like to do that city break.

Peaceful Lithuania

During the visit to the north of Lithuania I felt very much at peace.  Probably because everyone I met was happy - hardworking, but happy.

We docked at the comparatively new cruise terminal at Klaipeda which seems to be a mix of post World War II buildings and some very new and stylish ones.  Later in our tour when we had time to look around I was pleased to see that there is a very small 'old' town.

But first we simply drove through the town and north to the seaside resort of Palanga.  On the outskirts we visited the Botanical Gardens and an Amber Museum which is housed in the Tiskeviciai Palace.  This is a 19th century neo-renaissance style mansion - and wouldn't you know, undergoing restoration.  This being the case we only got to see a small part of the collection of amber artifacts.

The gardens are lovely having gradually brought back to the original layout, a few statues dotted about, a picturesque lake together with swans and a small white bridge, and some flower beds. 

It was then on to Palanga proper.  This is a popular resort with a long sandy beach reached by the Basanavicius Promenade.  A long and colourful pedestrianised street with souvenir shops, cafes, restaurants and various entertainments along the way.  Having done a lot of walking through the botanical gardens there was no way I would make it to the beach and back.  They need a land train for the 'less able'.

Back to Klaipeda.  At one time this was a part of Germany and called Memel.  Under the Treaty of Versailles it became independent and in 1923 became a part of Lithuania, subsequently changing its name.

We were dropped off at Theatre Square.  Look at the theatre and there is a balcony where Hitler had a rant.  In the centre of the square is a sculpture of Annchen von Tharau who was the heroine of a 17th century poem.  (Longfellow translated it - 'Annie of Thorow'.)

Around the edge of the square were stalls that local people had set up to sell their wares, much of it hand made.  There was a problem.  Although Lithuania is in the EU it doesn't yet have Euros and we didn't have the local currency.

In front of the statue was a folk band - jazzed up with a drum kit.  All very toe-tappy.  I understand that a later group from the ship started a conga like, much to the amusement of the locals.

Now it was time to stroll through the old town which didn't take long as it is roughly two streets by two streets.  As well as the old buildings we found the statue of the smug looking cat and, around the corner one of a perky mouse.  One small square is a game of chess - honestly, it comes complete with large pieces to be humped about.

To finish the tour we were treated to a glass of the local beer and traditional garlic bread.  As I don't drink beer I had a coffee.  The garlic bread?  Small pieces of fried bread - enough to chip your teeth - but I couldn't taste any garlic.  Perhaps they forgot to use it!  

Charming Tallinn

As our ship sailed from St. Petersburg towards Estonia we hoped that in Tallinn the weather would be kinder.  After all, it was June.

We were doomed to disappointment - it was freezing.  Apparently the previous day there had been a freak snowstorm.  So there I was well layered clothes-wise (trousers, tee-shirt, summer tunic, thin cardigan and a showerproof jacket) and hoped that I would stay warm but I really needed boots and gloves as well!

This was my first visit to Tallinn and I had heard a lot about it.  As a friend told me - if you love Prague you'll adore Tallinn.  Yes, I do love Prague.

As the land train bumped us over the cobbles through the Lower Town our heads were on swivels with so many wonderful buildings to look at.  In the Town Hall Square is - of course - the Town Hall, 14th century and the only surviving Gothic town hall in northern Europe.  The minaret-like tower was, apparently, modelled on a sketch made by an explorer after his visit to the Orient.  Also in the square is one of the world's oldest continuously running pharmacies. The Town Council Pharmacy has been in operation since at least 1422 but its present facade dates from the 17th century.

Stretching north from Town Hall Square is Pikk (Long Street) where there are the houses of German medieval merchants.  A lot of these houses were built in the 15th century.  What I like so much about them is that they aren't boring and the colours include cream, pink, burgundy, mint green and sky blue. 

Following this half-hour ride we then went by coach through the upper town to Kadriorg Park and the Song Festival Grounds with its natural amphitheatre (30,000 seats) and stage.  Estonians love singing although throughout the Communist oppression they weren't allowed to congregate and sing.  Shortly before the fall of communism people across the country began gathering to form choirs and now there are concerts and competitions all year round.  The largest festival of song is held here in Tallinn.

But that isn't the only occasion when the stage is in use.  All international musical celebrities perform here and there is a huge board displaying their names - Andrea Boccelli, Madonna, Elton John and Rod Stewart to name but four.

At the end of the tour the coach stopped in Lower Tallinn for those who wanted some free time.  Although I would have loved to take a stroll - and more photos - it was far too cold so I returned to the ship for some hot soup.

Now that I know the layout of the city I can do it by myself on foot next time.

The Catherine Palace - a Phoenix

Looking at the palace it is very difficult to realise that it is, for the most part, a reconstruction.  Blame that on the Nazi officers who used the palace during World War II.  They not only looted the place but, before they left, set fire to it. 

Fortunately for future generations, at the beginning of the war most of the artifacts from here (and from The Hermitage and other museums) were removed and hidden in the Urals.  Among the palace's items were photographs and paintings of the rooms and exterior.  It was from these that the palace has been restored with the work continuing.

Many items on display are the originals but where they went missing replicas replace them.  I think congratulations and thanks are in order to the restorers for their patience, artistry and hard work.

To read more about the Catherine Palace please go to the previous blog.

The Catherine Palace, Tsarkoye Selo

Unfortunately the weather for our second day in St. Petersburg didn't improve.  When we drove away from the port it was still raining.  As we were scheduled to arrive at the Catherine Palace before opening time it was an early start.  And what a difference when driving through the city - almost devoid of traffic.

We were one of the first coaches to reach Tsarkoye Selo and as the gates weren't yet open our guide time to check that her microphone and our headsets were working.  Her microphone wasn't but she did - thank goodness - have a spare.

Even though we were early we still had to queue for a while, but we didn't mind as it gave us time to take photos of the beautiful blue, white and gold facade of this 18th century Baroque palace named for Catherine I.  And we were entertained by some musicians.  As the tuba player had to read the music (oompa-oompa) that raised a few laughs.  Oh, and the rain had now stopped.

Inside we were supplied with fabric overshoes so that we wouldn't damage the beautiful floors - probably also saves money on polish!

The tour goes through numerous rooms starting with the glorious Great Hall with its painted ceiling by Guiseppe Valeriani ('The Triumph of Russia'), ornate white and gold decoration, fabulous floor and lots of windows.  As you cannot use flash in these rooms lots of light it very helpful.

 

After filing through three anti-rooms we found ourselves in the Arabesque Hall where official dinners took place.  The name comes from the blue and white decoration - reminiscent of Wedgwood - on the walls and ceiling.

There are several more rooms before the piece de resistance - the famous Amber Room with its breathtaking panels made of amber, some of them containing mosaic pictures.  Until seeing this room I hadn't realised how many shades of amber there are.  And would you believe that these are reconstructions?  In 1942 the Nazi's took the panels to Konigsberg and they disappeared without trace in 1945.

With so many glorious rooms to admire it would take a very long article to describe them - the best thing is to go and see the palace.  The alternative, of course, is to go on line. [www.eng.tzar.ru/museums/palaces/c_atherine].

Following our tour of the palace we then took a stroll through a small section of the gardens to see the lake and some of the small buildings that had been used for various purposes.   My ideal would be to spend a whole day there - a slower tour through the rooms and a lovely stroll in the gardens.  In the sunshine, of course.

White Nights and Rain in St. Petersburg

St. Isaac's Cathedral

As the ship docked in St. Petersburg it was raining - and cold.  Who would have believed it was midsummer?  Fortunately, by the time our coach was on its way taking us on a city tour, the rain had stopped.

I don't care where you live, but when it comes to traffic you ain't seen nothing like it as in Russia's second city.  Although there is a cheap and efficient underground system Russians love their cars and in St. Petersburg parking is free.  That includes double and triple parking.  Add to that it was a Friday - the most popular day for weddings so lots of brides and beautifully decorated stretch limos.  It was also Graduation so difficult to tell which stretch limos were which.  To say nothing of the fact that there was a political conference taking place which meant some roads were closed.

The Hermitage

White nights?  The nights over midsummer when it doesn't get dark.  In St. Petersburg there is always a festive feel and in the square in front of The Hermitage, on 21st June, a huge concert is held.  So we saw the preparations - not on the tour schedule.

Church of the Saviour
on the Spilled Blood

All credit to our driver who managed to negotiate the traffic and sometimes found places to stop so that we could take photos.  Of course we didn't get to see all of the locations on our agenda but that and the murky weather are a great excuse to pay another visit - but not in midsummer.

What did we see - apart from The Hermitage?  The exteriors of St. Isaac's Cathedral (and its dome from a distance), the Church of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood with its colourful domes, the Peter and Paul Fortress with its Cathedral.  This is where many Tsar's and Tsarina's are buried.

St Peter and St. Paul Cathedral

Whichever city I visit there always seems to be restoration work being carried out.  St. Petersburg is no exception.  As President Putin is from this city a lot of money is available for this important work.  I understand that some of the oligarchs are also being encouraged to spend their money on projects!

Between the weather, overcrowding and there being so much more to see in St. Petersburg another visit is definitely called for - hopefully next year.