My First Time in San Francisco

(And some old photos!)

In the autumn/fall of 1980 when working for a UK tour company I was sent to San Francisco to help the local travel agency get organised for the first influx of British tourists.

What was really great was that I only worked five days a week (in Europe it was six or even seven days a week - in the high season). So I had lots of time to explore the city on the hills. I will admit that I mostly rode the cable car to get back up to my hotel after my Sunday morning stroll around Fisherman's Wharf. In those days it was a lot quieter and not many of the shops sold cheap souvenirs. My favourite lunch was lobster on sourdough bread. And it was lobster, not 'maybe' lobster mixed with mayonnaise to make it go further.

The really fun day and evening was Halloween. It began on the way to work when I was following a pair of ladies down a hill. But they were having trouble with their heels. I quickly realised that for the gay population dressing up began in the morning.

That evening there was a Gay Party at the hotel where I was staying. My friendly barmen insisted that I dress appropriately. Now with all the Miss Piggies and bearded brides to compete with what should I go as? Shirley Temple. I shortened a skirt, found a blouse, bought ankle socks, ribbon for a big bow to put on my curls and a huge lollipop. It went down a wow except that one man mistook me for a waitress! It was a fun evening especially as I met two dancers from the ballet - I did a lot of dancing.

Before leaving San Francisco the local agent made sure I went on the various tours and, for me, the best one was the nightclub trip. Following two excellent clubs, we went to the Venetian Room where top of the bill was Mr. San Francisco - Tony Bennett. Now that really was a once in a lifetime experience.

I have been back to San Francisco several times but none of those visits have come up to the thrill of my first time there.

The 'Two' Ship Cruise

Had to laugh the other evening at a programme on television about an Alaska cruise. I can't remember the name of the woman who was cruising but she found herself quite amusing. Why anyone would be interested in her underwear beats me.

Having shown us her cabin and unpacking (the underwear display) she said she was going to the sail-away party and recommended viewers should do so - a chance to meet new people. She was going to the Crow's Nest (lounge bar).

As she was in the Crow's Nest - a popular bar which I know well - I guessed she was on a P&O cruise.

Cut from Crow's Nest to the ship moving away from the dock. Holland America. Hmmm. I thought this style of cut and paste for travel documentaries went out of fashion years ago. A very dangerous practise with the number of people cruising these days.

I don't think I'll be watching these programmes - once I'd seen the ship I changed channels. 

Bluebell Steam Railway in East Sussex

My trip on the Bluebell Railway began at the Victorian Sheffield Park Station.  Strolling up the lane towards the station I was wafted back in time by the old tin-type ‘posters’ attached to the white picket fence.  Here were advertisements for “Blue Bell Tobacco”, Redfern’s Rubber Wheels” and one that we still recognise – “Dewar’s Whisky”.

Once on the platform it is difficult to know what to look at first.  Obviously if there is a waiting train that gets the first inspection.  On this occasion there was a Pullman being prepared for a private lunch.  Envy, envy.  Looking in the windows at the tables spread with white linen and adorned with crystal glasses, silver cutlery, pink shaded lamps and the comfortable arm chairs does make one envious.

 Especially for boys of all ages are the workshops.  Here are restored locomotives, engines waiting to be restored or repaired.  And they come in all sizes from the small “Stepney” to the big old workhorses that once belonged to British Railways.  It’s funny, but when I was a teeny tot I am sure these monsters were black and dirty.  Now they are bright and shiny in either black or green. 

Across the footbridge on the other platform I found piles of luggage – old fashioned trunks, hampers and suitcases. The Waiting Room, now a museum, has photographs, various bits of equipment and a panel containing three stained glass windows depicting three gentlemen whose inventions helped create steam locomotion.

Toot!  Toot!

Time to board the train.  Unlike commuters we chatted with our neighbours and pointed out things of interest – some cows, horses or sheep (including cuddly, bouncy, lambs) in the fields.  Then there was the wild life, mostly rabbits bobbing about the fields and some colourful pheasants.  Someone further down the carriage called out, “Look, there’s a deer!” 

We looked about wildly but as we had no idea where he was looking we didn’t see the deer. When we drew into Horsted Keynes Station I wished there was time to get off and enjoy a step back in time to the 1940s.  Unfortunately I had other things to do later and couldn’t afford to wait there for the next train.

In those days the line terminated at Kingscote Station where we got off and went to the picnic area behind the station.  While we sat in the sun, the engine was unhitched and trundled its way to the other end of the train ready to make the return journey. Nowadays the Bluebell Railway goes all the way to East Grinstead.

In December there will be lots of special events such as Santa Specials on various dates starting either at Sheffield Park or East Grinstead. On the 21st December are Reindeer Specials from East Grinstead and Victorian Christmas Trains from Sheffield Park.

For more information log on to www.bluebell-railways.co.uk

Out and About in Bath

Whether you read Jane Austen, Georgette Heyer or any other writer of Regency novels you will have heard of the city of Bath.

In the centre of the town, beside the Abbey are the Pump Room and the Roman Baths.  The hot springs which – according to legend – were discovered by Prince Bladud in 500 BC when he followed his pigs into the waters and cured his leprosy.

Here are the same stone pavements around the steamy greenish waters the ancient Romans had used.  To me it feels like a holy place.  Not surprising as it had been a temple – to Minerva, the goddess of wisdom and healing.  And it comes complete with sculptures and mosaics. The water?  The baths still produce over one million litres of water a day at 46 degrees celsius.

For those brave enough to emulate the Georgians of the 18^th century who went to 'take the waters' you can taste it in the Pump Room.  Taking the waters was supposedly to cure their over-indulgences in the food and drink line.  The evenings would be spent in the Assembly Rooms dancing or playing cards.  Or at the theatre or – wining and dining.

Bath Abbey is on the site of a Saxon Monastery where the first King of England was crowned in the year 973.  (Edgar, grandson of Alfred the Great). The Abbey is not only imposing on the outside but inside as well.  Fabulous stained glass windows and smooth columns leading the eye up to the elegant fan vaulting.

A short walk from the here are the beautiful Parade Gardens along the banks of the River Avon. From the gardens is a splendid view of the Pulteney Bridge which dates from 1770 and is based on a John Nash design.  It comes complete with shops.

Also not to be missed is the elegant Royal Crescent made up of a terrace of thirty graceful houses all with matching windows and giant columns.  No. 1 is open to the public and decorated in the style of the period so that we can see exactly how the wealthy lived in the 18^th century.

The Royal Crescent was influential in the design of many other crescents in Bath which also has several elegant Regency squares through which to stroll. 

All of these things can be seen in just one day, but as there are many other things to see, not only in Bath, but in the surrounding area, a longer visit is advisable, especially if you also want to browse the shops or visit the Assembly Rooms where the Balls were held. 

St. Martin/San Maarten 2005

Here are a few photographs from my visit to this island.

Three Rivers of Southampton

Hamble River

Just been on a delightful day out - a sail around the waters of Southampton. It is amazing how many interesting, beautiful and strange things you can see from a boat.

Netley Castle

The three rivers are - the Itchin, Southampton Water and the Hamble. Our Blue Funnel cruise started at Ocean Village where we sailed through the Marina, with its many moored boats - large yachts, launches, small runabouts (as it were) and many other types. Out into the Itchin from where we could see three docked cruise liners but more about them later. We turned south to head into Southampton Water. There is some beautiful scenery on both sides of the river - the New Forest to the west and to the east bits of Southampton and some more pretty scenery. On that side of the river was the ruined Netley Abbey and Netley Castle. Fortunately there was narration so we did know what we were passing. Remember it all? Not quite.

Watch out for pirates on the Hamble!

Across from the Fawley Oil Refinery we headed inland up the pretty Hamble River. As well as the

scenery there are pleasure craft of all shapes and sizes to see. Some anchored in the river, some at marinas and all along on both sides, some glorious scenery. I love the river crossing ferry - painted pink!

Queen Elizabeth

Having seen the delights of the Hamble we turned and headed back to Southampton Water and the

Itchin River to get close up to the huge ships in the docks. The inevitable cargo vessels from car carriers to container ships but, of course, what we really wanted see were the three huge liners. First Cunard's Queen Elizabeth, then two P&O ships - the small Adonia (been on that) and the larger Oriana (also been on that - love its ballroom!).

And, did we ever get lucky - the sun shone all day long.

The excursion was organised by Woods Travel of Bognor and had made many stops to pick up passengers. A great way to visit places without having to worry about driving or public transport.

Useful web sites:

www.woodstravelco.uk

www.bluefunnel.co.uk

The Adonia

Las Vegas - Glamour, Glitz and Gaudy.

When I was strolling through the hotel's casino I was brought up short.  Was it?  Wasn’t it?  No, it couldn’t have been.  I continued my stroll which, of course, brought me back to the figure of a gentleman at a slot machine.  And I still couldn’t make up my mind.

Was it Richard Gere?  Being British I didn’t have the guts to ask.

During my visit I do know that a starlet held her birthday party at Caesar’s Palace so there were many famous faces around.

For Europeans like me Las Vegas takes a bit of getting used to.  The hotels are enormous, the casinos are huge and noisy and the razzamatazz is 24 hours.  It certainly took me a few days to get a handle on the place.

After discovering the delights of the casino-hotel, which is like a mini town with shops, restaurants and fast food outlets, you step out into the blazing sun of The Strip and wonder where to go next.  The hotel to the left?  The hotel to the right or the hotels across the road?  All very puzzling.

For example, I stayed at The Excalibur with the Luxor and Mandalay to one side, New York, New York on the other, the Tropicana and the MGM Grand across the road.  Add to the mix such hotels as the Venetian with its Doge’s Palace, Rialto Bridge, Campanile and Gondoliers or the elegant Bellagio and you can understand the confusion.

One thing is for sure, it takes more than a few days to discover the delights of all of the hotels along The Strip. 

To try to get the ‘feel’ of the Strip I used my feet and the free monorails and covered a fair amount of ground.

A monorail runs between The Mandalay, with its lagoon, rum distillery and a pool with a sandy beach (well, it is in the desert), the Egyptian themed Luxor (entrance from the Monorail station is through the Sphinx) and The Excalibur.  This last comes complete with gaudy towers, a King Arthur, Merlin and the Knights (including Medieval Tournaments and Banquets).  Ironically Sherwood Forest, which is synonymous with Robin Hood and nothing at all to do with King Arthur, is also featured as a café.

Crossing the walkway over Tropicana Avenue I discovered New York, New York.  Mind you, with its Statue of Liberty and replicas of the Empire State and Chrysler buildings it is difficult to miss.  The restaurant area is typical of New York with its delis and bars.

Once through New York, New York it was out into the bright and hot sun to carefully cross the road to the Monte Carlo – looking like Monaco’s Place du Casino.  Inside I took careful note of a Chinese restaurant as a great dinner location for the evening.  Wending my way through the hotel’s marble reception I eventually came to the monorail station.  This one to take me to the elegance of The Bellaggio.

Where to start with this hotel is difficult.  It is one of the few which, if you enter from the Strip, has its entry straight into the Reception area rather than through the casino.  In the lobby is a huge and gorgeous ceiling sculpture by Chihuly in the shapes of flowers and leaves – a veritable garden of exotic blooms.  Passing through Reception you come to the Conservatory, some beautifully laid out gardens that reflect the season.  I was there in autumn and one flowerbed consisted of a display of apples of all types ‘pouring’ down and around from a watermill.  Another flowerbed was a pumpkin patch complete with scarecrows.

The shopping mall, Via Bellagio, is only for the very rich with shops such as Tiffany, Chanel, Gucci and so on.  Outside it overlooks the lake on front of the hotel and looks like an Italian lakeside village.  Some of the time the lake looks calm and smooth but it has a wonderful feature – dancing fountains and music.  Never mind what times I was there, day or night, I missed them every time!

There are times when my resistance is low.  I know the real Venice very well and as I could see Venice’s Campanile (bell tower) I had to walk up to The Venetian.  There in front is the Rialto Bridge, a section of the Grand Canal (complete with gondolas and gondolieri) and backing this, the Doge’s Palace. 

Inside the hotel is another canal running through the shopping mall which itself meanders just like the streets and squares of Venice.

Having talked about the gaudy and the glitzy I bet you are wondering where the glamorous part comes in.  Those fabulous showgirls, of course, in their high, high heels, enormous headdresses, diamantes sparkling, feathers of all colours of the rainbow floating about them – and little else. 

At night Las Vegas is like a vast colourful fairyland with the neon glowing, people in cars parading up and down The Strip, people on foot strolling and, indoors, people gambling, eating in the wide variety of restaurants and seeing the shows.  Everything from famous singers and performers to Cirque du Soleil and virtually anything else you can think of.

This is just a taste of some of the wonders to be discovered in Las Vegas.  I will definitely be returning to explore more of the hotels, which could be never ending as more are being constructed (and others renovated) all the time.