A Procession of Royal Coaches

When looking at the Royal coaches on display at The Royal Mews in London, the only word I could think of to describe them was a 'procession'. Shining, trimmed with 'gold' and some with crystal lamps they are an array of elegance.

The landaus are frequently used, both with the hoods up (cold weather and rain) but are best recognised when the hoods are down. Such as for Royal Weddings and State occasions. Annually they are used at Ascot when HM Queen Elizabeth II entertains guests at Windsor Castle.

The Royal Mews, which is open to the public, also has some other magnificent coaches.

One of the newer carriages is The Diamond Jubilee State Coach which is used for State Visits and the State Opening of Parliament. I can understand why it is used for the latter. Having stood in the wind and rain waiting to wave to Her Majesty as she passes by I am sure she appreciates the fact that this coach has heating. It also has electric windows and stabilisers - the latter being a good enough reason to use it for State Visits.

Made in Australia and incorporating artifacts into the bodywork it is a mobile Museum celebrating the history of Great Britain. For example, fragments from Henry VIII's Mary Rose, the former Royal Yacht Britannia and a cross on the top carved from wood from HMS Victory. Then there are fragments from the Stone of Destiny, Isaac Newton's apple tree - I could go on but the list would take a whole article. The lamps are handmade Edinburgh Crystal and the door handles have 24 diamonds and 130 sapphires from New Zealand. Together with the gilding it really is a magnificent vehicle.

There are many other coaches - only some of which go on display - there isn't room for them all! For example, there is the Scottish State Coach which was built in the 19^th century and began as a glass coach owned by Princess Mary of Adelaide, Duchess of Teck.  In 1969 it was given a new roof and has a model of the crown of Scotland on its roof – hence its name.  The advantage to spectators when this coach is in use is that it has large glass windows and glass panels in the roof giving plenty of illumination of the occupants.  On the doors are the royal arms for Scotland and the insignia of the Order of the Thistle.  With its gold filigree around the roof this is a very elegant carriage.

Queen Alexandra’s State Coach, described in 1865 as a ‘plain town coach’, was converted into a ‘glass state coach’ in 1893 for the then Princess of Wales (later Queen Alexandra).  During the State Opening of Parliament the Imperial State Crown is carried in this coach ahead of the Queen’s Procession to the Houses of Parliament.  Compared to some other carriages this one is rather sombre looking with a replica crown on the roof. The royal arms of England and insignia of the Order of the Garter are on the panels.

The Irish State Coach was built for Queen Victoria but the woodwork was destroyed in a fire in 1911.  It wasn’t until 1988 that the Royal Mews Carriage Restorers completely restored it.  At first glance it seems to be a very serious coach for a serious purpose – until you look at the roof which is a glorious array of gold filigree topped by a crown.  

The Australian State Coach was built in 1988 and presented to the Queen during her Royal Visit to Australia.  It is a very pretty carriage with trumpeting cherubs on top and Waterford crystal lamps showing a design of the Queen’s head.

One of the most recognisable coaches is the beautiful Glass Coach – so called for its large windows – which is used to convey Royal Brides to their weddings.  It was built in 1910 as a sheriff’s town coach and bought by the Royal Household before King George V’s coronation in 1911.

The most famous coach of all is the Gold State Coach, which is kept indoors.

In 1762 an entry in a journal kept by the Clerk of the Stables at the Royal Mews says that at the beginning of the reign of George III a ‘very superb’ State Coach was ordered to be built.  Later in the journal it says that on 24^th November 1762 the new State Coach was brought to the Mews and at 8.00 a.m. eight cream horses were put to it to try it around the mews.  Eight horses are needed to pull it as it weighs four tons.

The framework of the body has eight palm trees which branch out to support the roof.  Each of the four corner trees rises from a lion’s head and are laden with trophies symbolising the victories of Great Britain in the Seven Years War that ended just before the coach was completed.

There are two gilded tritons fore and aft which appear to support the coach.  On the roof are three cherubs representing England, Scotland and Ireland.  They support the Royal Crown and hold the Sceptre, the Sword of State and the Ensign of Knighthood.

The panels on the front, back and sides are by Giovanni Pattista Cipriani, a Florentine painter and engraver who came to London in 1755. 

The Royal Mews also houses the horses that are needed to pull these carriages.  If visiting during the Royal summer holiday the chances are that the horses won’t be there.  They are taken away to enjoy some freedom in the countryside but their 'posh' bridles and harnesses are on display along with the uniforms used by the footmen and grooms (drivers).

As well as transport of a bygone era, the Royal fleet of cars is also kept at the Mews with one limousine usually on display with a prancing horse on the bonnet instead of the winged Victory normally associated with Rolls-Royce.

Even if you cannot go to visit the Palace, you can at least see these magnificent coaches. 

Beautiful Capri, the Island of Love

Some of my most favourite views in the world are from the top of Monte Solaro near Anacapri (on the island of Capri) – nearly 2,000ft. above the Bay of Naples.  When it is misty, and with the other small islands scattered about on the azure water, it looks mysterious.  Rather like a Japanese painting.

Looking down you can see all the shades of the water, from deep sapphire blue to azure, to green, to pale turquoise.  Then there is the rugged coastline with cliffs rising from the aquamarine shallows.  From here you get a 360 degree panorama showing, when it is clear, Naples, Sorrento, Vesuvius and the neighbouring island of Ischia.

Inland are terraced hills, some adorned with red-roofed white homes and clumps of trees, and the occasional splash of bright blue of a swimming pool.

On arrival in Capri and looking up from the harbour on the Marina Grande to the town above it looks like a tough climb, but don’t despair.  There are buses, cabs and a funicular waiting to take you to Capri Town.

To get to Anacapri, take a bus or a cab up the hair-raising drive to the Square.  To reach the summit of Monte Solaro you literally have to jump onto the chair-lift to see those brilliant views.  (Alternatively you can walk up but that is best left to experienced hikers).

The chair-lift swings out of town over back gardens with men maybe doing some weeding and their ladies hanging out the washing.  Then it is a gentle ride up the slope.  Just like being a bird.  No sounds of machinery, no cars, no loud music, just the swish of the chair on the cable, the breeze soughing through the trees and the delicate perfumes of the herbs and the pines. And at the top there are footpaths and a café so you can stroll around to see all of the scenery then sit down with a cooling drink before jumping onto the chair-lift for the return journey.

Back down in the Square stroll and drool over the designer clothes and the jewellery in the shops.  Or have a snack, but be warned, meals are very expensive in Capri.

An alternative to the shops is the little church of St. Michele in Piazza San Nicola.  The church was founded in 1719 and for a small financial donation you can go in to admire the mosaic floor and walk around the church – on boardwalks which protect the floor.  The mosaic depicts the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden of Eden. And I love the statue of a young boy dressed as a Roman soldier and wielding a sword, which stands in the entrance.

Capri Town offers more shops, luxury hotels, cafes and restaurants and the opportunity to stroll across to the other side of the island. 

All around the Town are Medieval alleys to investigate and narrow lanes up and down between multi-coloured villas and gardens.  Intermingling aromas of garlic and cheese and of the abundant flowers greet you.  Especially prolific is the bougainvillea with its purple or crimson flowers scaling house walls or draped over garden fences.

Before leaving Capri I took a boat trip.  There is, of course, the famous Blue Grotto but, be warned, it is best visited in the morning and to enter it, one has to lie flat in the boat.  Not for me, I’m afraid.

I went on the coastal cruise which is awe-inspiring.  The craggy, shrub spattered cliffs rise almost sheer from the sea.  Look up and there is someone sunbathing on top of a rocky outcrop.  No it isn’t.  It is a very lifelike black statue!

I may have missed the Blue Grotto but I wasn’t disappointed.  There is another one that is open to the sea.  Here are the most wonderful rock formations seemingly stretching up into infinity.  And the sea is the most gorgeous turquoise you have ever seen.

To try to describe anything else in detail would be an anti-climax but, if sailing along that coast, look up and see if you can see the “anteater”.  That’s my name for a most extraordinary rock formation.

If you have the time to spend a couple of days on Capri do so.  You then get the chance to sample the night-life which is mostly based around the restaurants.  But the best is people watching.  Sit at a restaurant table in the Square overlooked by the Baroque Cathedral and watch the wealthy residents and visitors tricked out in their finery.  It is almost balletic watching them pass to and fro, greeting friends and standing to chat.  Then the group splits and they wander off to meet other friends.

Great fun, especially when seeing the poseurs!

Whatever you do when visiting that part of Italy you must go to the romantic Isle of Capri or, to give it its other title, the “Island of Love”.  Once you’ve been you’ll never forget the flowers, the perfumes or the brilliant views.

An Exotic Building for the University of Tampa

When visiting Tampa in Florida, go and see at the exotic looking building that houses the University of Tampa. When it was built it was on a green peninsula but now when you see the surrounding buildings and the traffic you wonder what Henry Plant - a gentleman who was into transportation in a big way - would have thought. Especially as he had the hotel constructed to encourage the more well-to-do to spend their holidays in Tampa.

During the hotel's lifetime there were three methods of reaching it: road, rail or sea. Some of the really rich guests had their own railroad carriages which would be brought into a yard at the side of the hotel. Others came on their yachts, for which there was a pier.

The name of the hotel was the most unoriginal thing about it - the Tampa Bay Hotel. The building itself is an extravaganza of Victorian architecture gone mad. Built in 1891 in  Moorish Revival style, the red brick building has wonderful shiny steel elongated onion domes surmounted with turrets and topped with crescents. In contrast the verandah has exquisite white painted wooden fretwork which looks like Arabian lace. It is a long building and apparently one lap of the buildings was said to be one mile. Just right for Victorian gentlemen to take their daily walk. (I wonder how many people do their daily jogging around it nowadays?) Of course, guests weren't expected walk far - rickshaws were provided both inside and outside the hotel.

Henry B. Plant brought the railroad to the west coast of Florida and in 1884 it reached Tampa. He also built the steamship terminal at Port Tampa which has a deep water channel. He then built The Inn but wasn't satisfied with that. He wanted something far more magnificent.

One wonders what the local populace thought of this weird construction when it was finished. It was very opulent and very well furnished. Obviously only people with pots of money could afford to stay there.

The furnishings were wonderful - statues, candelabra, Florentine mirrors, a seven panelled painting called 'Wine, Women and Song' (which hung behind the orchestra in the Ballroom) to mention but a few items. The painting is now on display in the Henry Plant Museum.

The great thing about the hotel was that it had electricity (by Edison) from day one and all suites had baths.  Over the years a casino, a boat house, an annexe, bachelor's quarters, a golf shack, kennels, stables, conservatory and exhibition hall were added, totalling twenty-one buildings. The Casino, which was built in 1896 increased the dancing and performance area in the hotel. The ingenious part about it was that the dance floor could be lifted, revealing a swimming pool.

The gardens were beautifully laid out with over 150 species of tropical plants and flowers. Dotted about were wonderful porcelain seats from China and Japan. Exactly right for the elegant ladies on which to sit and rest during their leisurely strolls.

Stepping inside the Museum which occupies a small part of the building you immediately get a feel of what it was like as a luxury hotel. The outer doors have bevelled glass and are very attractive. The doorways and arches are in keeping with the Moorish fantasy in that they are 'keyhole' style. The rooms below the turrets have surprising niches beneath the turret.

In the hall there is a red carpet, pictures, mirrors, tables - some of which are beautifully inlaid - jardiniere, porcelain jars and statues. The Reading Room is possibly the most authentic in that it has almost every original piece of furniture. It is a dark room with inlay around the door frames.

Another room illustrates how women normally spent their time: tea services, unfinished embroidery lying about, silver service on display and some very charming chairs.

There is a child's bedroom suite with cabinets, various pots and twin beds with mosquito netting.  There are toys and children's clothing lying about. No child’s room would be complete without this! Across the hallway is the parents' bedroom with its mosquito netted bed.

Among the other rooms are a 'junk' room with a most eclectic collection of garden furniture, pots and coloured pottery objects and a room with a display of costumes. In here I noticed a particularly delightful back-to-back sofa which was, unfortunately, being used as a plant pot holder. And there is a room with an exhibition of Henry Plant's interests - the steamships and railroads.

Having mentioned earlier the fact that the hotel had electricity, notice the strange light bulbs. These were designed by Edison and are said to last forever. They are set in a circle of three bulbs with a mirror above them to reflect the light downwards.

Before leaving the museum stand on the verandah and picture it as it would have been with the ladies and gentlemen in Victorian or Edwardian costume. So very elegant. And take a look up through the wooden lacework to see one of the metal turrets.

Among the well-known people who stayed here was Sarah Bernhardt. This was in 1906 during her farewell tour when she gave a performance in the Casino. She didn't stay in the hotel because she found it draughty. Instead she slept in her own railroad carriage.

In 1915 the audience had to wait for two hours to see a performance by Anna Pavlova and Company. They were coming from St. Petersburg (Florida) on the local ferry which was late arriving.

Apparently Babe Ruth signed his first major league contract while staying at the hotel and Dr. James Dwight (the 'father' of lawn tennis) was at the hotel opening to promote the game. Gloria Swanson, as a child, used to visit the hotel with her parents and when she wrote her memoirs (at the age of 80) she mentioned the enormous dining room and the netting over the bed.

But it wasn't always fun and games at the hotel. In 1898 the Spanish-American War broke out. Because the Tampa Bay Hotel is on the west bank of the Hillsborough River it was used as the headquarters for U.S. Army Major General William R. Shafter and the troops camped in the surrounding woods. The famous Rough Riders were there, one of the officers being Lt. Col. Theodore Roosevelt who, rather than putting up at the hotel, camped with his men. (I wonder if he had his teddy bear with him?).

After the war the hotel returned to its former function of luxury hotel.

Henry Plant died in 1899 and in 1905 his heirs sold the hotel to the City of Tampa and it became the only municipally owned hotel in the Southern States.

Since 1933 the Tampa Bay Hotel has been home to the University of Tampa and the Henry B. Plant Museum. And, of course, it is a National Historic Landmark.

www.plantmuseum.com

Britannia, the former Royal Yacht

Imagine having your own ship in which to cruise the world.  Fantastic. From 1955 until it was decommissioned in 1997, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II had a yacht – the Britannia. It is now anchored at the Ocean Terminal, Leith (near Edinburgh) for everyone to enjoy. 

The Queen's bedroom is smaller than you expect, nevertheless it is a charming and restful room with a delightful floral embroidered silk panel on the wall above the bed, matching floral curtains and armchair.  

Prince Philip’s bedroom adjoins the Queen’s. As is to be expected, it is a very much more masculine room with dark furniture, and crimson bedcover. I could picture them in their respective beds with the connecting door open and having a conversation over morning cups of tea.

Afternoon tea was usually taken in the Sun Lounge overlooking the Verandah Deck. Here there are chairs, a sofa and lots of small tables where the family relaxed with their tea, cucumber sandwiches and cream cakes. This deck was the play area.  A collapsible swimming pool was available for the children, Prince Philip painted at his easel, and games of quoits or deck hockey were enjoyed.  When in port for ceremonial occasions and, when the weather was fine, State receptions were also held here.

The most outstanding feature of the deck is the ornate white and gold Compass Binnacle which was one of a pair that the Prince rescued from Britannia’s predecessor, the ‘Victoria and Albert III’. It had originally been on Queen Victoria’s ‘Royal George’.

The two most used rooms are the State Dining Room and the State Drawing Room. The State Dining Room is where people such as Sir Winston Churchill, Mrs. Thatcher, Presidents Reagan, Clinton and Yeltsin were wined and dined. And on Sundays the room was used for church services.  It could also be converted into a cinema with a drop-down screen and, in 1971, when Princess Anne celebrated her 21^st birthday, the carpets were rolled back for dancing.

 The State Drawing Room is large and comfortable with chintz covered sofas and armchairs, small tables of various shapes and sizes and two gorgeous Persian rugs. In one corner is a baby grand piano – fastened to the floor by bolts so that it didn’t slide across the floor during bad weather. As well as various members of the Royal Family who have played the piano – Princess Margaret and Princess Alexandra – another well-known name to tinkle those ivories was Sir Noel Coward. He was once invited aboard to dine with Princess Margaret when she was on a Caribbean cruise.

It is only from the very top of the yacht do you get an idea of the size of the vessel from the prow to the stern. The Bridge is on the next deck down, in front of which is the Royal Bridge, where the Queen and Prince Philip often stood as the yacht sailed into port. 

One fascinating corner is the Garage. When Britannia was first in use it was necessary to take one of the vehicles – either the Rolls-Royce Phantom V or the Royal Land Rover (whichever was appropriate to the destination) – because some countries didn’t then have appropriate transportation available. In later years when suitable transport was available and it was no longer necessary to take a car, the garage was used as a beer store.

Near to the yacht there is the Royal Barge. Instead of hanging on the side of the ship with the lifeboats this is now in a little ‘home’ of its own so that visitors can see all around it, admire the workmanship and see up close the delightful dolphin-fish which decorate it. The Royal Barge was called into use when Britannia had to anchor off shore. The air-conditioned cabin has windows all around it so that the Royal party could be clearly seen as the barge neared the shore.

The tour of Britannia can take as long as you like because you have a recorded commentary with you. Although you don’t have the privilege of entering the yacht along the red carpet and up the official gangplank, you do get to tread where the Royal Family, other Royalty, members of State and innumerable famous people have walked. 

Welcome Aboard!

Web site: www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk

Welcome to Cadiz

With the number of cruise ships calling at Cadiz in southern Spain you would expect it to be overrun with tourists, wouldn't you? But as this port is the closest most ships can get to Seville...

I have to admit that I have taken the opportunity - on several occasions - to visit Seville. But on my last cruise I did what I had promised to do for a long time. I ambled around Cadiz. Small enough to do that and not get lost. It is on the tip of a peninsula between the Atlantic Ocean and the Bay of Cadiz. As a centuries old fortified city there still remain city walls and forts. And the castle is within sight of the port.

Before leaving the ship I picked up a map which indicates various walks, depending on your interests and/or walking capabilities. No, I didn't follow any of them. I like to discover hidden corners, but first wanted to see Plaza de Espana as it has the most important monument in Spain's history. Until 1812 Spain didn't exist as we now know it. It was made up of several kingdoms and regions but in 1812 representatives from all over what is now Spain congregated in Cadiz and worked out a constitution for a united country. The monument is awe-inspiring; walls with depictions of groups of delegates and statues of men on horseback.

From there I ventured down one of the narrow side streets and found myself in some more gardens alongside the port where I took photos of a beautiful fountain before diving into another narrow street. I love meandering along streets filled with 18th century buildings. You can almost feel the history emanating from them. Then there was another large square - Plaza San Juan de Dios - with the magnificent City Hall.

Time to head for the old city and the Cathedral. Much to my disappointment it is on a hill and these days scaling even the shallowest of heights is impossible. I then looked for steps. Crumbling and no hand rails.

I did see the market where, in the square in front of it, were loads of stalls selling what we've all seen before. Whilst standing looking around at the buildings I found a couple of very interesting plaques on one of the walls. One commemorating the lost heroes of the Battle of Trafalgar (21 October 1805), when Nelson defeated the French at nearby Cape Trafalgar. The other is a bicentenary plaque.

Time for some shops. Lots of them, some bearing well-known names. I find it tempting to look in the windows of jewellery shops. Can't afford any of it but I do like Spanish designs.

Cadiz has enough to keep everyone busy for the whole day, especially if you are into museums. Unfortunately my back told me it was time to return to the ship. Not my favourite, the P&O's Oriana (which was undergoing renovations) but their Arcadia where Steve and Jan Holmes (the dance instructors) kept us dancers stepping out.

I think next time I am in Cadiz I will take the excursion to Jerez, home of sherry. Mmmmm.

Battling the Wind on Skye

Fortunately for this, my last excursion of the cruise, I was going on an afternoon trip. In the morning the rain bucketed down.

Unfortunately, the sea was very rough and we were anchored in the bay. This means being taken across the waves by tender to Portree. There were several problems with this. There are only two docking spaces in the port. At midday people were returning to the ship for lunch. This meant long queues are the tenders were offloaded, then re-loaded them with people returning to the ship. On the ship itself, people who wanted to stroll around Portree were boarded onto the same tenders as those of us on excursions. It would have made life easier if the strollers waited until the excursionists had been ferried across.

We eventually reached Portree half-an-hour late for the excursion and I suspect we missed out a photo stop. Nevertheless....

I loved the tour despite the grey skies and gale force wind.

The rugged terrain backed by the mountains made for wonderful vistas. So many shades of green from the grass to the shrubs and trees interspersed with the 'bonny' purple heather and backed by granite mountains. The first stop was to see the Old Man of Storr. Not a venerable old gentleman but a very large single slab of rock overlooking the surrounding land.

The next stop was at Kilt Rock - so called because of its 'pleats'. Stupendous views all around and a waterfall dancing down the cliff face to the sea.

 

I am sure you have heard of Flora Macdonald and Bonnie Prince Charlie. Even simply from the song 'Over the Sea to Skye'. This fearless young woman rescued Charles Stewart (the Young Pretender) from the Scottish mainland and the Duke of Cumberland's forces, and kept him safely on Sky until he could be rescued and taken home to France. Having been on a tender in the rough seas I am even more amazed that she managed it in a small rowing boat.

Flora is buried in the cemetery at Kilmuir and her grave is marked by a very tall monument. Even though I have problems walking uphill I was determined to go to the monument. The biggest problem once up there was the wind which made it very difficult to hold the camera still.

 

Also at Kilmuir, at the bottom of the hill is the Skye Museum of Island Life with thatched stone cottages and some of the implements that had been used for farming in days of old. Each of the cottages (or crofts) bears its name. For example, the Weaver's House, The Old Ceildh House, the Forge.

Our guide, John Mackay was excellent. As he is also a singer we were treated to a couple of Scottish songs, one of them being in Gaelic. And he was proudly wearing his kilt. To be honest, listening to his soft Highland accent reminded me of my Scottish granddad who came from Aberdeen.

It was, despite the weather, a lovely afternoon out.

Oriana anchored off Portree

A Circular Tour from Kirkwall

Ducks come out to play

Now we are in the Orkneys moored at the capital, Kirkwall. And there was a bit of miscalculation on my part so far as my seat on the coach was concerned. The tour didn't go in the direction I had expected so I was sitting on the wrong side of the coach for taking some of the photos.

(By the way, if taking photos through a window do remember to switch off the flash otherwise you take a photo of the flash. Flash photography? Groan.)

We drove northwest to the coach road with its stunning views of the Island of Rousay and the tidal roost on either side of the Isle of Eynhallow. This is where the Atlantic Ocean and the North Sea meet. There we saw a number of basking seals but brown on brown rocks made them difficult to photograph.

Near the RSPB Reserve we made a stop at Birsay Bay. From there we could see the sea bird cliffs at Marwick Head. Very noisy it was too. And, of course, we couldn't miss the Neolithic Ring of Brodgar, a World Heritage Site. We didn't stop there but we did stop at the Standing Stones of Stenness.

For me the icing on the cake was a chance to stroll the streets of Stromness. This is a small fishing harbour across the water from the island of Hoy. One of my favourite modern day classical composers lived, for many years, on Hoy and wrote a gorgeous piano piece entitled 'Farewell to Stromness'. Sir Peter Maxwell Davies who died in March 2016 at his home in Sanday.

You want to know where the Old Man of Hoy is? The other side of the island from Stromness.

As it was a Sunday all of the shops were closed - except one where I bought a box of delicious home-made shortbread. Really melt in the mouth. Yummy. Made me wish I'd bought two boxes.

The blob is the marker buoy over HMS Royal Oak

The return journey was along the coast road overlooking Scapa Flow, the stretch of water which played important roles in both World War I and World War II. It was here at the end of WWI where the German Navy was interned - and scuttled their ships which are still on the seabed. And it was in October 1939 that a German submarine torpedo-ed and sank the HMS Royal Oak, which also rests on the seabed.

For a day that had begun showery it ended up beautifully sunny, for which we were grateful and it was a wonderful day.